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Routes in (t) Eagle Pinnacle

After the Gold Rush T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Andy Dude T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Compound Eyes T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Eagle's Nest T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Razor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Feeling Groovy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goblin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jizz T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Lovers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Razor Burn TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Razor's Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhino Skin T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Road to Nowhere, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Romeo Void TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schmooze T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Small Affair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Small Affair direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Spoodge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Untickable, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, Patty Kline, Kelly Vaught, and Frank Bentwood, June 2005
Page Views: 201 total, 4/month
Shared By: alleyehave on Sep 5, 2013
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start just right of Finger Lickin' Good with an unprotected face move (5.8) or up the easier crack farther right, to a friction slab with three bolts (5.10a). At the last bolt, you can move left to the 2-bolt anchor.

Falling while making the moves to the first bolt on the upper section would likely be bad and warrants an R rating. However; there is a crack to the right which would likely take gear but might be considered off-route.

Location

Directly to the right of Finger Lickin' Good.

Protection

A few small cams/nuts and 3 draws for the bolts.

Photos

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Bob Gaines
5.10b PG13
Bob Gaines  
5.10b PG13
At the third bolt you can climb staright up (instead of traversing left to the bolt anchor) for a slightly longer and more difficult pitch.

Set up a gear anchor (thin to 3 inch) just up and right from the bolt anchor to prevent swings.
Easy to downclimb to and rap from the bolt anchor.

This was the line of the first ascent, and makes for a better line. Oct 29, 2017
J Sundstrom
San Diego, CA
  5.10a
J Sundstrom   San Diego, CA
  5.10a
The horizontal crack at the ledge takes finger-sized that'd keep you off the deck on the way to the first bolt. You'd still hit the ledge but wouldn't go tumbling down to your belayer. Jul 5, 2017
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
 
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
 
I don't totally disagree. It seemed harder than expected for the grade, and I have a reasonable amount of slab experience. Jun 1, 2015
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
 
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
 
If this is only 5.10a then my technique on friction slabs is clearly lacking! Even after failing to lead it and resorting to a top-rope, the crux move felt like UK 6a to me, which the usual grade conversion tables would suggest is 5.11-something!! I suspect this climb gets a relatively low grade because the hardest moves are very safe, right next to closely-spaced bolts. Use of side runners takes the sting out of the less safe R bit.

Total length is 60' rather than 100'. Oct 3, 2014