Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Darrell Hensel and Jonny Woodward, 1986
Page Views: 3,172 total · 25/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Thin steep edging on good rock characterizes this route. Originally done with 5 bolts, the first ascent party later rearranged the first bolts to eliminate two potential ground falls. There are now 6 bolts on the route.

Scramble 40' up to the base of the route. From standing on the flake, pull onto the wall and climb past 4 bolts (11d) to the crux 5th bolt (12a). Slightly runout moves gain the base of a right angling ramp. Easy moves (5.8) up the ramp take one to the last (6th) bolt. One may belay at the two bolt anchor on the Sloppy Seconds ledge, or continue on the easy (5.7) crack to the base of Eagle Pinnacle. A single rope reaches from the double bolt anchor.

Location

Far left side of the lower Eagle Pinnacle wall. Just left of Sloppy Seconds.

Protection

Bolts, small gear to 2" if going all the way to Eagle Pinnacle.

Photos

johannsolo
So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
  5.12-
johannsolo   So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
  5.12-
Get ready to crank on the thin. Really good. Jun 18, 2014
DannyJ
San Diego, CA
DannyJ   San Diego, CA
TRd this today after climbing Feeling Groovy. Wow, very impressed with the movement and quality of the edging. Very few moves where you are relying on pure friction - the holds are there, if you can piece them together. Reasonably sustained. Jan 14, 2018
Tradiban  
 
No really tiny crimps, all good edges. I took a fall from about as high as you "should", one move before the jugs, and it was clean but once you are on the jugs going for the last bolt a fall would be serious. Mar 8, 2018