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Routes in (t) Eagle Pinnacle

After the Gold Rush T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Andy Dude T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Compound Eyes T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Desperato TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eagle's Nest T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Razor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Feeling Groovy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goblin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jizz T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kiss of the Spider Woman T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Lichen Lovers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Razor Burn TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Razor's Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhino Skin T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Road to Nowhere, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Romeo Void TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schmooze T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Small Affair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Small Affair direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Spoodge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Squirt T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Untickable, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Darrell Hensel and Jonny Woodward, 1986
Page Views: 3,077 total · 25/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Thin steep edging on good rock characterizes this route. Originally done with 5 bolts, the first ascent party later rearranged the first bolts to eliminate two potential ground falls. There are now 6 bolts on the route.

Scramble 40' up to the base of the route. From standing on the flake, pull onto the wall and climb past 4 bolts (11d) to the crux 5th bolt (12a). Slightly runout moves gain the base of a right angling ramp. Easy moves (5.8) up the ramp take one to the last (6th) bolt. One may belay at the two bolt anchor on the Sloppy Seconds ledge, or continue on the easy (5.7) crack to the base of Eagle Pinnacle. A single rope reaches from the double bolt anchor.


Far left side of the lower Eagle Pinnacle wall. Just left of Sloppy Seconds.


Bolts, small gear to 2" if going all the way to Eagle Pinnacle.


So Cal
johannsolo   So Cal
Get ready to crank on the thin. Really good. Jun 18, 2014
San Diego, CA
DannyJ   San Diego, CA
TRd this today after climbing Feeling Groovy. Wow, very impressed with the movement and quality of the edging. Very few moves where you are relying on pure friction - the holds are there, if you can piece them together. Reasonably sustained. Jan 14, 2018
No really tiny crimps, all good edges. I took a fall from about as high as you "should", one move before the jugs, and it was clean but once you are on the jugs going for the last bolt a fall would be serious. Mar 8, 2018

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