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Routes in (t) Eagle Pinnacle

After the Gold Rush T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Andy Dude T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Compound Eyes T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Eagle's Nest T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Razor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Feeling Groovy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goblin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jizz T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Lovers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Razor Burn TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Razor's Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhino Skin T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Road to Nowhere, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Romeo Void TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schmooze T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Small Affair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Small Affair direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Spoodge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Untickable, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Darrell Hensel and Jonny Woodward, 1986
Page Views: 2,893 total, 25/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Jul 9, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Thin steep edging on good rock characterizes this route. Originally done with 5 bolts, the first ascent party later rearranged the first bolts to eliminate two potential ground falls. There are now 6 bolts on the route.

Scramble 40' up to the base of the route. From standing on the flake, pull onto the wall and climb past 4 bolts (11d) to the crux 5th bolt (12a). Slightly runout moves gain the base of a right angling ramp. Easy moves (5.8) up the ramp take one to the last (6th) bolt. One may belay at the two bolt anchor on the Sloppy Seconds ledge, or continue on the easy (5.7) crack to the base of Eagle Pinnacle. A single rope reaches from the double bolt anchor.

Location

Far left side of the lower Eagle Pinnacle wall. Just left of Sloppy Seconds.

Protection

Bolts, small gear to 2" if going all the way to Eagle Pinnacle.

Photos

johannsolo
So Cal
  5.12-
johannsolo   So Cal
  5.12-
Get ready to crank on the thin. Really good. Jun 18, 2014