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Routes in (t) Eagle Pinnacle

After the Gold Rush T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Andy Dude T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Compound Eyes T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Eagle's Nest T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Razor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Feeling Groovy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goblin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jizz T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kiss of the Spider Woman T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Lichen Lovers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Razor Burn TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Razor's Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhino Skin T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Road to Nowhere, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Romeo Void TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schmooze T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Small Affair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Small Affair direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Spoodge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Untickable, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dave Evans and Todd Batey, 1989
Page Views: 161 total, 1/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 3, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a fun, balancy thin face route with some weird moves. It's near the right edge of Eagle Pinnacle, to the right of Spoodge. Follow a line of three bolts up the face.

Protection

3 bolts

Photos

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Tradiban  
 
Fun moves through the bolted section. I brought a small cam to protect the move into the alcove at the top. Jul 30, 2017
Michael Lagueux
San Diego, CA
  5.10b
Michael Lagueux   San Diego, CA
  5.10b
that name tho

::shudder:: Sep 25, 2016
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
 
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
 
I did this one a couple of summer's ago. It's a fun lead that's well protected through the crux. You might want a few cams around 1 inch or so you can protect the last move to the anchors, but not really necessary. Get on it if you're doing Johnny Quest and Flakes of Wrath. May 4, 2015
C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
Pseudo sport climbing at Sucide Rock. Sep 3, 2014
dnaiscool  
 
The moves at the crux of this route are completely height dependent, and I thought it was more like .10c, but .11- if you are short. Go do it and see what you think...Pro: #0,1&2 TCU, .5 to 2 Camalots. Better than the .10d to the left, because that route, "Spoodge", features a ledge landing at the crux...(Is there a theme to the names here?) Aug 12, 2014