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Routes in (t) Eagle Pinnacle

After the Gold Rush T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Andy Dude T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Compound Eyes T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Eagle's Nest T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Razor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Feeling Groovy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goblin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jizz T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kiss of the Spider Woman T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Lichen Lovers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Razor Burn TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Razor's Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhino Skin T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Road to Nowhere, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Romeo Void TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schmooze T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Small Affair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Small Affair direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Spoodge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Untickable, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jim Wilson, Tobin Sorenson & John Long 1974
Page Views: 830 total, 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 7, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Lieback the large, somewhat uninspiring flake system just left of Electric Razor (5.11a), passing two bolts near the top where the flake becomes distressingly thin and creaky. When the flake ends step right and climb a steep, thrutchy left-slanting crack system past a wide section to a stance with a bolted anchor.

Bats live inside the flake, so the desired technique while climbing the flake is to thump the flake soundly (enjoy the hollow vibratory sound it makes) and then lieback up a distance. Repeat the process until past the flake and into the crack system.

The climbing on this is fairly good but the creaking flake makes you wonder if you'll make it to the top before it parts company with the cliff and falls earthward. Still, overall it's an experience not to be missed.

Location

Located in the middle of the face between Kiss of the Spiderwoman and Electric Razor above a large, low-angled slab. Getting to the base of the climb is somewhat problematic and involves an exposed traverse from the right that comes in below Spoodge or climbing a 5.7 thin crack to slab. There's a two bolt anchor at the base of the climb which affords an easy anchor and makes for an easy descent back to the ground.

Protection

2 bolts, gear to 3.5", bolted anchor/rap

Photos

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Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
dnaiscool...TMI.
Where's the fun in knowing all the details of the route before getting on it?
Thanks for the write up, Chris. Aug 29, 2015
dnaiscool  
 
This is the vastly easier and not-a-classic analog to Wheat Thin in The Valley. I rather enjoyed this route, but the approach is a bit sketchy if you are unroped. I'd recommend doing the 5.7 approach crack that leads up into the bowl directly.

Pro: Base of flake Belay= #7Hex, 1.5 Friend
Lead = #1 & #1.5 Friend for the "thick" parts of the flake, then one each
#1,2,3 Camalots for the leaning crack, draws for the 2 bolts
(Note: There was only one bolt here in '91)
Top Belay = bolted

The rap is 165' to the ground, so bring a second rope to do just that and you'll avoid the sketchy, slippery, sloping bowl experience.

Climber's left of this route are two bolted face routes that I climbed, thinking they were both rather cool. While you are up there, take the little traverse to the left and you can TR these at 5.11 something each. The left one (Sublunary Flight. .11a..?) is easier than the right (Kiss of the Spider Woman.. 11b/c..?) Apr 10, 2015
Tradiban  
 
No bats but plenty of lizards. Yea, that's a thin flake! Aug 27, 2014