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Routes in (t) Eagle Pinnacle

After the Gold Rush T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Andy Dude T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Compound Eyes T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Eagle's Nest T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Razor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Feeling Groovy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goblin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jizz T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lichen Lovers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Razor Burn TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Razor's Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhino Skin T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Road to Nowhere, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Romeo Void TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schmooze T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Small Affair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Small Affair direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Spoodge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Untickable, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Eric Erickson and John Long, 1978
Page Views: 106 total, 1/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 3, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This short route has a number of interesting moves. The crux is in the first 20 feet, going up a shallow groove and rounded arete. Easier climbing above takes you to a bolted belay/rappel anchor.

Protection

one bolt, one fixed pin, and a few pieces of gear (mostly small)

Photos

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Tradiban  
 
I TR'd this, the crux at the pin is very tricky with balance on slopers, I don't think I would want to lead it. Jul 30, 2017
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
 
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
 
I got a decent #1 DMM peanut and a sideways #6 stopper a few feet above the bolt, but I'm not sure either would have held a fall. Scary, and kind of exposed for Suicide. I sure wished that piton was a little lower! May 19, 2008
C Miller
CA
  5.10d R
C Miller   CA  
  5.10d R
A short "one move wonder" route that has some fun moves on it. I'd give it an "R" rating as you're looking at slamming into the ledge at the base if you fall. Sep 26, 2007