Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (t) Eagle Pinnacle

After the Gold Rush T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Andy Dude T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Compound Eyes T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Eagle's Nest T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Razor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Feeling Groovy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goblin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jizz T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kiss of the Spider Woman T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Lichen Lovers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Razor Burn TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Razor's Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhino Skin T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Road to Nowhere, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Romeo Void TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schmooze T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Small Affair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Small Affair direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Spoodge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Untickable, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Own Gunther and Mark Minor, 1970
Page Views: 1,601 total, 13/month
Shared By: Craig Hamilton on Aug 13, 2007
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


47 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a fun mostly finger crack on the seldom climbed Lower East Face of Eagle Pinnacle. It's a single pitch but comes in two parts, separated by a small ledge. The first half is a variable width crack/flake with a very loose but easily avoidable block halfway up. Above the ledge, it becomes a perfect, sustained finger crack that eats up pro and jams. The actual crux is probably the first move or two getting off the ground , but the emotional crux is probably somewhere toward the top. Due to the elevated start, be sure to reach up to get some pro in right off the deck. Good fun for the grade, enhanced by late afternoon shade.

Location

This is on the far right side of the Lower East Face of Eagle Pinnacle. Unlike many of the Pinnacle routes, which start up higher, this route ascends the bottom slab just above the trail. There are a number of cracks on this slab, but this one is the clean-looking finger crack with a small ledge halfway up. There is a bolt line about ten feet to the left of it. To get to the base of the crack, you need to scramble about ten feet up a small entry slab either ten feet left or right of the crack.

Protection

Pro to 3 inches with a good supply of small to medium stoppers and/or small cams. 2-bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

AndrewArroz  
 
This is a great climb for beginning leaders. Agree with the note to get a piece in right off the deck. And that the beginning is really the hardest few moves. The rest is a fun finger crack with lots of different options. And the ledge that divides the upper and lower half is a nice mental break. Dec 14, 2016
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
 
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
 
A good lead for the budding climber. Fun finger locks with reasonable protection. Very short by Idyllwild standards. May 4, 2015
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.7
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.7
Pleasant. UK grade mild VS 4c. No more than 60' long. Gear up to 1". Oct 3, 2014
Chad F
Costa Mesa, CA
 
Chad F   Costa Mesa, CA
 
Book says Pro to 3 inches, I think you can use nothing but a small nut for the start, and finger sized cams/nuts for the 2nd half of the climb. Can rap with a 60m from two bolts with rap rings back to the ground. Aug 23, 2011