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Routes in (t) Eagle Pinnacle

After the Gold Rush T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Andy Dude T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Compound Eyes T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Eagle's Nest T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Razor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Feeling Groovy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goblin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jizz T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kiss of the Spider Woman T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Lichen Lovers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Razor Burn TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Razor's Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhino Skin T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Road to Nowhere, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Romeo Void TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schmooze T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Small Affair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Small Affair direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Spoodge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Untickable, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dan and Debbie Haughelstine, August 1989
Page Views: 111 total · 1/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 3, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This thin face route has many small flakes for holds. The climbing is so-so. It starts on the ground, to the right of the Tiny Pillars area.

Protection

3 bolts to a bolted belay/rappel anchor

Photos

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Tradiban  
 
I didn't find too many exfoliating holds, pretty fun slab and worth doing. Apr 16, 2017
I did this last Summer. Maybe not one of Dan's five-star routes, but I liked it; I'd give it at least a star. The crux for me was past the last bolt at the top: friction with no positive holds. The start was not too hard. Mid way I think I used a wired for extra safety. Jun 10, 2015
Nick Barczak
5.10b
Nick Barczak  
5.10b
Climbed this route on 5.24.2009 and I thought that it definitely felt harder than 5.10a. I wouldn't give it any stars, but if you're on a mission to tick obscurities then this a fine route. As some of the edges have undoubtedly exfoliated, the climbing feels a bit tricky. Crux is probably getting past the first bolt to the small rail. May 25, 2009
Brandon R
Sacramento, CA
Brandon R   Sacramento, CA
Agree with Chris completely, though I'm leaning toward bomb. May 19, 2008
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Generic slab climbing with exfoliating edges that may make this route harder with time and more traffic. Zero stars but not a bomb. Mar 7, 2006