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Routes in (t) Eagle Pinnacle

After the Gold Rush T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Andy Dude T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Compound Eyes T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Eagle's Nest T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Razor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Feeling Groovy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goblin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jizz T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kiss of the Spider Woman T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Lichen Lovers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Razor Burn TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Razor's Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhino Skin T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Road to Nowhere, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Romeo Void TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schmooze T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Small Affair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Small Affair direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Spoodge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Untickable, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Randy Grandstaff, 1980
Page Views: 403 total · 3/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Feb 3, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a clean, arching crack with several tricky sections. A flared hand crack in the middle of the route is the first hard part, following by strenuous hand and fist jamming above. The crux is a reach for good holds at the top. It's at the top of North Gully East, and is obvious once you are there.

Protection

a wide range of gear, from wired nuts to a #4 camalot

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
Andy Dude = LOL!!!! Too funny on the name. I wonder why it was called this... Oct 28, 2017
Tradiban  
 
Little funky to start, good hand to good fists higher up. Oct 28, 2017
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10b
Ryan Strickland   Idyllwild, CA
  5.10b
We happened on this route after climbing Eagle's Nest. Didn't know what it was but it looked cool so we went for it. Really a cool climb! Too bad it's such a pain to get to it, otherwise it'd probably be climbed a lot more. Not knowing the grade, we thought 5.10b was fair. It's not quite as hard as Flakes of Wrath. Jun 21, 2016