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Routes in (t) Eagle Pinnacle

After the Gold Rush T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Andy Dude T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Compound Eyes T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Eagle's Nest T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Electric Razor T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Feeling Groovy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Finger Lickin' Good T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goblin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Jizz T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kiss of the Spider Woman T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Lichen Lovers T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Razor Burn TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Razor's Edge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhino Skin T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Road to Nowhere, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Romeo Void TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Schmooze T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Small Affair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Small Affair direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Spoodge T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Untickable, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Scott & Robin Erler, Paul Morrel - Aug 91
Page Views: 114 total, 1/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Mar 5, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Just to the right of Razor's Edge - the nut/cam anchor has been replaced by bolts (a piteous trend). 5 bolts lead up sustained thin edging to connect with the finish of Razor's Edge.

Location

Rappel off Razor's Edge.

Protection

5 bolts, bolted anchor

Photos

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Tradiban  
 
Good moves, 3rd bolt still pulled out a bit but that's the easiest climbing, some cams needed for 5.9 crack finish. 2 days ago
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
A piteous trend indeed, Chris. A morally painful peccant piteous practice. Jun 22, 2015
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
No cams or nuts required for the anchors - duly noted in description. Thanks. Jun 10, 2015
This climb was a fun challenge. The crux for me was after clipping the first bolt to just before the third bolt; no single hardest move, it seemed to be continuous thin, razor-sharp moves. After that, the holds get bigger. The third bolt needs replacing, it is only partially inserted. I backed up the bolt with two small wires. The rest of the route was much easier, but the 5.9 hand/fist crack, where it joins "Razor's Edge" was a bit of a grunt.

The belay stations at the start and end were bolts and chains, no need for pro there. Jun 8, 2015
Choncho  
The FA was by Scott and Robin Erler. Apr 30, 2009