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Finger Lickin' Good
5.7,
Trad, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2.6 from 114
votes
FA: Own Gunther and Mark Minor, 1970
California
> Tahquitz & Suic…
> Suicide Rock
> (t) Eagle Pinnacle
Description
This is a fun mostly finger crack on the seldom climbed Lower East Face of Eagle Pinnacle. It's a single pitch but comes in two parts, separated by a small ledge. The first half is a variable width crack/flake with a very loose but easily avoidable block halfway up. Above the ledge, it becomes a perfect, sustained finger crack that eats up pro and jams. The actual crux is probably the first move or two getting off the ground , but the emotional crux is probably somewhere toward the top. Due to the elevated start, be sure to reach up to get some pro in right off the deck. Good fun for the grade, enhanced by late afternoon shade.
Location
This is on the far right side of the Lower East Face of Eagle Pinnacle. Unlike many of the Pinnacle routes, which start up higher, this route ascends the bottom slab just above the trail. There are a number of cracks on this slab, but this one is the clean-looking finger crack with a small ledge halfway up. There is a bolt line about ten feet to the left of it. To get to the base of the crack, you need to scramble about ten feet up a small entry slab either ten feet left or right of the crack.
Protection
Pro to 3 inches with a good supply of small to medium stoppers and/or small cams. 2-bolt anchor at the top.
Costa Mesa, CA
Cheshire, UK
Idyllwild, CA
Los Angeles, CA
Los Angeles, CA
San Diego, CA
Don't forget to hop on the nice slab routes on either side of this crack. TR from same bolted anchor, just clip a bolt or two for directional. Jun 13, 2020
Oak Park, CA
The Gym
Orange County, CA