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Finger Lickin' Good

5.7, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 114 votes
FA: Own Gunther and Mark Minor, 1970
California > Tahquitz & Suic… > Suicide Rock > (t) Eagle Pinnacle

Description

This is a fun mostly finger crack on the seldom climbed Lower East Face of Eagle Pinnacle. It's a single pitch but comes in two parts, separated by a small ledge. The first half is a variable width crack/flake with a very loose but easily avoidable block halfway up. Above the ledge, it becomes a perfect, sustained finger crack that eats up pro and jams. The actual crux is probably the first move or two getting off the ground , but the emotional crux is probably somewhere toward the top. Due to the elevated start, be sure to reach up to get some pro in right off the deck. Good fun for the grade, enhanced by late afternoon shade.

Location

This is on the far right side of the Lower East Face of Eagle Pinnacle. Unlike many of the Pinnacle routes, which start up higher, this route ascends the bottom slab just above the trail. There are a number of cracks on this slab, but this one is the clean-looking finger crack with a small ledge halfway up. There is a bolt line about ten feet to the left of it. To get to the base of the crack, you need to scramble about ten feet up a small entry slab either ten feet left or right of the crack.

Protection

Pro to 3 inches with a good supply of small to medium stoppers and/or small cams. 2-bolt anchor at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Coco on her first trad lead.
[Hide Photo] Coco on her first trad lead.
Very satisfying
[Hide Photo] Very satisfying
Agina Sedler 8-4-12
[Hide Photo] Agina Sedler 8-4-12
Agina Sedler 8-4-12
[Hide Photo] Agina Sedler 8-4-12

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chad F
Costa Mesa, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Book says Pro to 3 inches, I think you can use nothing but a small nut for the start, and finger sized cams/nuts for the 2nd half of the climb. Can rap with a 60m from two bolts with rap rings back to the ground. Aug 23, 2011
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Pleasant. UK grade mild VS 4c. No more than 60' long. Gear up to 1". Oct 3, 2014
Ryan Strickland
Idyllwild, CA
 
[Hide Comment] A good lead for the budding climber. Fun finger locks with reasonable protection. Very short by Idyllwild standards. May 4, 2015
Andrew Rice
Los Angeles, CA
 
[Hide Comment] This is a great climb for beginning leaders. Agree with the note to get a piece in right off the deck. And that the beginning is really the hardest few moves. The rest is a fun finger crack with lots of different options. And the ledge that divides the upper and lower half is a nice mental break. Dec 14, 2016
Andrew Rice
Los Angeles, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Just did this again yesterday. Definitely no need for any gear bigger than a .75. And you'll be happy to have lots of finger sized pieces. Fun little climb. May 28, 2018
[Hide Comment] This thing is sweet and fun to drop the packs real quick and do a warm up lap to get ready for the business of the day. Bomber finger locks on slabby rock Nov 4, 2018
jt newgard
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] While you are climbing this quality route, you can tell people walking by how many parties are in line for Flower of High Rank.

Don't forget to hop on the nice slab routes on either side of this crack. TR from same bolted anchor, just clip a bolt or two for directional. Jun 13, 2020
Sean
Oak Park, CA
[Hide Comment] small stoppers plus small cams to BD 0.75. bolted rap anchor is just above the visible upper end of crack, out-of-sight on the low-angle upper slab, much lower than as drawn in book Aug 28, 2022
Gumby King
The Gym
 
[Hide Comment] There is a very big crimp about 8' from the start and to the right of the crack. Has this crimp always been there or have I been blind for the past 4 years? It makes the opening sequence a lot easier. Jun 10, 2023
Chris S
Orange County, CA
 
[Hide Comment] ^ that crimp has been there but it's camouflaged well if there isn't any chalk on it! Gear to .75 at most...black totem to .5 camalot has always been plenty, .75 if you're looking for it. Doubles if you want to stitch it up. Aug 14, 2023