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Routes in The Matron
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East Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Father Knows Best T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Human Experiment, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Lost in America T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Matronaton T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Memento Mori S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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North Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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North Face Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Pasta Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Quiche on a Leash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Serpentine Dreams S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Soten S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sunday Comix T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Warlocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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West Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
| Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
| GPS: | 39.94304, -105.2884 |
| FA: | David Hume, 2023 |
| Page Views: | 301 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | David Hume on May 11, 2025 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This route follows an obvious steep arete at the bottom then climbs through the tall face above reaching an anchor where the crag starts to slab out.
Bouldery compression climbing through the arete leads to a tricky sequence gaining the face (crux). Sustained face climbing above yields to easier terrain and a good rest. Make some fingery and inobvious moves through the final shield of rock to gain the anchors.
The route starts just above some large boulders that form an alcove around the base of the North Face route. Avoid scrambling up those boulders by continuing on the trail past them then cutting through the talus above to the base of the route.
Location
Follow directions to The Matron, then skirt the east edge of the formation, and follow the climber's trail along its north face. The climbing begins just below a prominent arete that forms the lowest point of a large roof feature running up to the west edge.
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