Avg: 1.6 from 8 votes
Routes in The Matron
|East Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Father Knows Best T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Human Experiment, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|North Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|North Face Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Pasta Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Quiche on a Leash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Serpentine Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Sunday Comix T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X|
|Warlocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|West Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|FA:||Dale Johnson and Phil Robertson, 1952|
|Page Views:||1,133 total, 6/month|
|Shared By:||George Bell on Aug 7, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a bizarre route whose end is about the same elevation as the start! It is a good winter route as it melts out quickly. Begin from the highest saddle to the west of the Matron (only about 30' from the base of the West Ridge). It is easier to reach this saddle from the north, but you can also approach from the south of the Matron (less snow in winter).
Hike down a chute of dirt and pine needles past trees to find a well defined ramp descending out onto the vertical south face. Climb down this ramp, which is quite easy, but there are pine needles and loose rock around, and a fall would be fatal, so it is a good idea to be roped up. This is the most unpleasant pitch of the route. It is also possible to begin right from the base of the west face, but this is more difficult and involves more loose and crumbly rock.
From here the route is obvious, you simply follow this ramp east as it goes down and then back up. There are several nice belays along the middle of this ledge, where it is 6' wide.
Eventually, as the ramp heads up, it shrinks down and steepens. Here you will find several fixed pins. Finally, the ledge runs out together, and the crux of the route is the remaining 10 feet or so to the East Ridge. There is an old bolt here to clip before the crux (traverse right from the bolt if you want to make it 5.6, straight up is harder).
Once you reach the east ridge, you will probably be experiencing major rope drag. The easiest option is to continue traversing until you reach a belay stance. You can also immediately head up the east ridge, in which case you will discover a foot wide chimney separates you from the rest of the east face. Continue up the face left of this chimney, and belay near its top. In either case, continue easily via the top pitch of the East Ridge.