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Routes in The Matron

East Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Father Knows Best T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Human Experiment, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
North Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Face Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pasta Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Quiche on a Leash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Serpentine Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunday Comix T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Warlocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
West Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Alison Sheets and Mark Hirt, 1980s
Page Views: 1,153 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Oct 18, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is so-so. It is an interesting diversion at the Matron but not a destination. There are some really good moves on some pretty poor rock in at least one spot. I scraped off a lot of grit and lichen, and my partner broke off one hand hold. Were the route on better stone, it would be a 2+ star route. As it is, it is a 2- star.

This climb starts on the high end of the North Face, just a short distance East of the West Face and the slab routes there. Soul Survivor boulders up a flake to an initial bolt, goes up and right (reachy) to a big undercling flake, then through the roof left (11b, reachy) or right to underclings and a heel hook (11d, gut-buster). The rock on chalked flake of the right option is crumbly, and grit was falling out of the heel hooks I used. The left way is a "will my foot really stick to that?" move with a hidden jug to match hands on at the lip.

Get to the first bolt (5.9-) to the roof (5.10b) through the roof (11b) and then go up and left to gain a crack which goes up and right (runout of 1-1.5" gear, 5.8) to the 3rd bolt. From the 3rd bolt climb 5.10 and 5.11- moves to the top of the buttress (lichens, crumbing rock in a few places) where you can clip 2 eye-bolts on the top, just at the W. Face intersection. Long slings make a smooth TR possible. If not using slings, save your rope and the bolts, and rap, don't lower off.

Protection

6 draws + a set for the top anchors. 1-1.5" pro with a sling can protect the long distance (relatively easy, maybe 5.8) between the second bolt and the third. Otherwise 5.8 S.
It would be easy enough to TR this route from the anchors above, accessed from a rap after another route to the top.

Photos

This sounds more like a description of "Father Knows Best;" see comments under North Face of the Matron. Aug 16, 2004
Easy to TR from rap anchor. Aug 14, 2004