Avg: 2.5 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 70 ft (21 m)|
|FA:||Alison Sheets and Mark Hirt, 1980s|
|Page Views:||1,595 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Oct 18, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
This climb starts on the high end of the North Face, just a short distance East of the West Face and the slab routes there. Soul Survivor boulders up a flake to an initial bolt, goes up and right (reachy) to a big undercling flake, then through the roof left (11b, reachy) or right to underclings and a heel hook (11d, gut-buster). The rock on chalked flake of the right option is crumbly, and grit was falling out of the heel hooks I used. The left way is a "will my foot really stick to that?" move with a hidden jug to match hands on at the lip.
Get to the first bolt (5.9-) to the roof (5.10b) through the roof (11b) and then go up and left to gain a crack which goes up and right (runout of 1-1.5" gear, 5.8) to the 3rd bolt. From the 3rd bolt climb 5.10 and 5.11- moves to the top of the buttress (lichens, crumbing rock in a few places) where you can clip 2 eye-bolts on the top, just at the W. Face intersection. Long slings make a smooth TR possible. If not using slings, save your rope and the bolts, and rap, don't lower off.
It would be easy enough to TR this route from the anchors above, accessed from a rap after another route to the top.