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Routes in The Matron

East Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Father Knows Best T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
North Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Face Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pasta Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Quiche on a Leash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Serpentine Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunday Comix T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Warlocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
West Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Karl Gustafson and Don Ackerman, 1951
Page Views: 14,314 total · 67/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Jan 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is listed in Gerry Roach's book as one of the top ten routes in the Flatirons. It has been a popular route for a long time and is quite historic. To reach the bottom of the climb, hike around to the North side of the Matron and follow a climber's trail up until you reach a large block. Chimney up between this block and the Matron and start on the bench immediately afterwards. The climb is roughly four pitches long - about 1.5 pitches of steep 5.6 on the North Face, and then easy scrambling to the summit on the East Ridge.

P1: follow a left-leaning crack on the face past a few old rusty pins to a ledge with a small tree (5.6).

P2: climb the short crack out onto the East Face, and belay on a ledge wherever convenient (5.6).

From here, the climb is much like scrambling on the East Faces of any Flatiron and is easy, well-featured, and offers little pro. Scramble for a couple hundred feet of 5.2-5.4 to the summit.

Protection

A light rack is sufficient. Bring maybe 1 set of nuts and a small hanful of cams as well as a few quickdraws for the fixed pins. If you are thinking of soloing the climb, bring a rope for the descent off the back side or be stuck with a long and not very pleasent downclimb.
The descent can be done with two single rope rappels provided you have a 60m rope (200ft). The second rappel finishes on top of a large flake (20ft tall and 2 feet wide. From there, it's an easy downclimb. I did it with a 50m rope and had to use the last inch of the rope (had to untie the knots on the rope) and stem like mad to make it onto the flake.... Not recommended.... Jul 9, 2001
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
The trick on the second rap (if you only have a 50m rope), is NOT to go down the north face. Head down the arete to the west, right next to the West Face route. The rope easily reaches the ground here. Make sure you are using the lower rap anchor (2 nice bolts), not the one at 60' shown in Rossiter. Aug 6, 2001
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
As George mentioned, on rappel #1 (using a 60m rope length), continue past a single eyebolt (notice large raptor nest on left with interwoven purple webbing) to a pair of eyebolts another 20' farther down (southwest). From here a 60m rope will reach the flake & talus. This final rappel is approx. 90', and if done to the north, provides a splendid free rappell off the slightly overhanging wall. A great finish! Aug 1, 2002
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
I did this climb yesterday -- very enjoyable! Fun moves, and great positions on the rock. Rappelling off (going north from the lower set of bolts on the second rappel), I noticed that there is an interesting-looking bolted route just to the right (when facing the rock) of the rappel line. The route is near the far west edge of the north face, and doesn't seem to be described in Rossiter's guidebook. The first bolt is near the top of a left facing flake, the second just above a small overhang (it looks like the clip could be made from beneath the overhang, though), and at least three more bolts beyond a little ramp that's above the second bolt. Does anyone know the rating of this route, and when it was put up? Nov 23, 2002
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Jake, I too have seen the bolts you refer to. These may be the route in Rossiter "Soul Survivor (5.11, Charlie Fowler ca. 1982)". Don't you step off a flake to start the route, as described in Rossiter? Rossiter does not mention any bolts, but it is a very brief route description with no topo. Nov 23, 2002
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
George: I noticed that "Soul Survivor" looked to be in pretty much the same location as the bolted route, but I would have assumed that Rossiter would have mentioned the shiny new bolts. Without the bolts (i.e., if it had been retrobolted after Rossiter's guidebook were published), then I would have thought he would have given it an "s" rating originally -- it would be pretty spicy without the bolts. And I don't know what "step off a flake" means -- is that the same thing as following the flake up for 15-20 feet to the overhang? In any event, despite my confusion and uncertainty, I can say for sure that it looks like a pretty fun pitch. Nov 23, 2002
Regarding the bolted route seen from the cool overhanging rappell; I put it up with Mark Hirt in the late '80's, bolted on rappell, it is not the Fowler route. It is 5.11 something and there is now a missing pin after the bulge between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. A small or medium sized cam would do. I think we called it "Father Knows Best" as my Dad, a general contractor, had helped me procure some some bolts and a drill for the project (this is when you could still drill with impunity in the Flatirons). Alison Sheets May 26, 2003
Jake Wyatt
Longmont, CO
Jake Wyatt   Longmont, CO
Cool. Thanks for the info; it looks like a pretty sweet line. May 26, 2003
Kudos to this site. I came here with a question that was incredibly answered by Alison. I don't find the route descriptions in Roach to be accurate. The Rossiter topos are necessary for the variations on P1, all of which are an excellent diversion before topping out to climb the rap routes. Jun 12, 2004
Mike Epke
Denver, CO
 
Mike Epke   Denver, CO
 
This great route can be done in three pitches with a 60m rope. Do pitch one as desribed w/ belay at the tree. Pitch 2 should use a belay at about 160-170 feet using a large vertical crack with a good #3 Camalot placement and nuts. Pitch 3 can take you all the way to the summit. Enjoy. Sep 6, 2004
Kevin Craig  
 
The 5.6 part is fun but way too short. Not sure why everyone belays at the tree, as this makes the interesting climbing on P2 pretty short - better to go all the way to the E Face on P1 I think. There is a loose block masquerading as a bomber hand-hold just below the "cave" that is below the crux flake on P1 - be careful! On the second rap, 1 60m rope will get you to the ground (rather than the top of the fin/flake) if you rap to the north. These 2 eye-bolts are better than average but are NOT modern rap bolts (a little scary to me). A good route with nice position but not stellar in my book. Aug 15, 2006
Mike McMahon
Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
 
Mike McMahon   Little Cottonwood Canyon, Utah
 
Climbed it tonight in two pitches. A 60m rope was exactly long enough to reach a great belay crack (#2/#3 cams) high on the east ridge... but there wasn't any rope to spare! It's probably best done in three pitches. Nov 6, 2007
DamageVic
Coal Creek Canyon, CO
  5.6
DamageVic   Coal Creek Canyon, CO
  5.6
Climbed this today; P1 - up to the tree, 3 pins that could be clipped, the 4th is rotated down so much that it seemed inaccessible.
P2 - up the crack/flake & onto the E. Face...almost to the big tree way up high. 3rd pitch - up the headwall and to the summit. (60m rope)
Rapped of the Fixe ring anchors through the slot in the overhang down to the 2 bolt anchor below. Then a quick descent to the bottom of the West face. Aug 2, 2009
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.6
Fun route and outstanding double-rappel. Did it in three pitches with a 70m rope. First pitch is definitely the best, following a nice crack up a vertical wall. The other two pitches are standard Flatiron face climbs going about 5.2 with few places for protection. Would give the climb and raps four stars if not for the long approach. Sep 20, 2009
Rodger Raubach  
  5.6
Although it is possible to get off with a single 60 or 70 meter rope, it's better to use 2 ropes and rappel down the West Face--spectacular rappel. This is one of the best climbs in the Boulder region; not terribly difficult, but simply a classic excursion to a unique summit.
As a note; this was the third climb of my career, back in 1959! It still is memorable. Jul 21, 2010
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6 R
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6 R
Pitched it out in 3 pitches. Running the first two caused some rope drag, especially since the belay station at the ridgeline isn't the best. All the climbing on the ridge up to the summit is extremely easy but as is noted protection is very sparse. Choose your belay spot carefully and keep an eye out for creative protection.

Brought a single rack from blue TCU all the way up to #3 Camalot and placed everything. Put an alpine draw on every single piece you place or regret it later on.

Rap station is on the far west end of the summit, look for the shiny rings.

Two raps worked nicely. The second rap station is NOT the ancient eyebolt you see as you go down the southwest face. The newer rap anchors are just a little bit lower. They're hard to see from up above, keep an eye out for them. Bringing approach shoes might be a good idea, since it's a short boulder hop back to the start of the climb. May 19, 2013
A0hero
Detroit, MI
  5.6
A0hero   Detroit, MI
  5.6
Best climb I've done in the Flatirons. I thought the gear was really good compared to other things I've done in the area. Definitely not a R rated climb. Rapped with 70m and a tag line... it was awesome. Jun 1, 2013
Benjamn P
Boulder, CO
  5.6
Benjamn P   Boulder, CO
  5.6
10/8/16 - Tony B. and I were finishing up Quiche on a Leash, and we spoke with the three of guys. We trundled that rock and you videoed (it would be sweet to see the footage). We did get your draw off the first pitch of the North Route. Contact me through MP to get it back, both of us have PLENTY of booty gear! Oct 12, 2016
Dan Raymond
Longmont, CO
Dan Raymond   Longmont, CO
Belaying at the tree makes pitch 1 very short, so it makes more sense to finish pitch 1 somewhere on the east face. Just don't use the large block where the north face meets the east face. It is not stable. On the first rappel, you will go past a single eyebolt (very old). If you stop there, you can lean out and see the double bolted anchor below you and a little bit to the south. Continue there, but be warned it is above a very small ledge with only enough room for one person to stand. Your partner will need to hang on the anchor while you rethread the rope. The second rappel will take you down the north face to the ground. A 60m rope is sufficient for both rappels. Oct 23, 2016
tkessel Kessel
Windsor,CO
  5.6
tkessel Kessel   Windsor,CO
  5.6
Beautiful hike up Shadow Canyon, had the whole Matron to ourselves, first two pitches protect good. Once on the ridge, it's easy climbing but difficult to protect in spots. Rappelled twice with one 60m rope. Oct 3, 2017

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