Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Karl Gustafson and Don Ackerman, 1951
Page Views: 16,487 total · 68/month
Shared By: Andrew Wellman on Jan 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route is listed in Gerry Roach's book as one of the top ten routes in the Flatirons. It has been a popular route for a long time and is quite historic. To reach the bottom of the climb, hike around to the North side of the Matron and follow a climber's trail up until you reach a large block. Chimney up between this block and the Matron and start on the bench immediately afterwards. The climb is roughly four pitches long - about 1.5 pitches of steep 5.6 on the North Face, and then easy scrambling to the summit on the East Ridge.

P1: follow a left-leaning crack on the face past a few old rusty pins to a ledge with a small tree (5.6).

P2: climb the short crack out onto the East Face, and belay on a ledge wherever convenient (5.6).

From here, the climb is much like scrambling on the East Faces of any Flatiron and is easy, well-featured, and offers little pro. Scramble for a couple hundred feet of 5.2-5.4 to the summit.

Protection

A light rack is sufficient. Bring maybe 1 set of nuts and a small hanful of cams as well as a few quickdraws for the fixed pins. If you are thinking of soloing the climb, bring a rope for the descent off the back side or be stuck with a long and not very pleasent downclimb.

Photos