Avg: 3.1 from 93 votes
|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Karl Gustafson and Don Ackerman, 1951|
|Page Views:||13,932 total · 67/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Wellman on Jan 13, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis route is listed in Gerry Roach's book as one of the top ten routes in the Flatirons. It has been a popular route for a long time and is quite historic. To reach the bottom of the climb, hike around to the North side of the Matron and follow a climber's trail up until you reach a large block. Chimney up between this block and the Matron and start on the bench immediately afterwards. The climb is roughly four pitches long - about 1.5 pitches of steep 5.6 on the North Face, and then easy scrambling to the summit on the East Ridge.
P1: follow a left-leaning crack on the face past a few old rusty pins to a ledge with a small tree (5.6).
P2: climb the short crack out onto the East Face, and belay on a ledge wherever convenient (5.6).
From here, the climb is much like scrambling on the East Faces of any Flatiron and is easy, well-featured, and offers little pro. Scramble for a couple hundred feet of 5.2-5.4 to the summit.