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Routes in The Matron

East Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Father Knows Best T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Human Experiment, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
North Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Face Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pasta Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Quiche on a Leash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Serpentine Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunday Comix T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Warlocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
West Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Chip Ruckgaber and Skip Guerin
Page Views: 1,252 total, 12/month
Shared By: bhoran on Jan 2, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a continuos, steep to slightly overhanging crack system with fist to finger jams and a reachy exit move at the top. One the best cracks for its grade in the Flatirons.

Location

Located on the lower east end of the south face of the Matron. From the southeast end of the Matron hike up slope a short distance to the prominent, left-leaning crack/corner system. Climb up from a large block and begin jamming up the fist to finger crack, exit right over a bulge to the belay, rap station.

Protection

Gear up to a #4 Friend with rappel station at the top.

Photos

Anchor needs work! There was one bolt with a runner nest, including one relatively new sling, and two stoppers that had popped out and were hanging from the sling. We re-set one stopper and backed it up with a cam for toproping, then the last person rapped from the bolt and stopper.

The first half is quite dirty (pigeon shit) and loose in places, but the climbing is interesting and continuous. The last half is great fun and the whole thing would clean up with a little work. Oct 4, 2009