Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 135 ft (41 m)|
|FA:||C. Harrison, A Torrisi, 1982|
|Page Views:||539 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Jun 16, 2014|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Climb the parallel finger cracks low to get onto the wall (small cam protection) and then up to a good stance below the bulge/roof. Place a good small cam (very small) or 2 under the roof and do some interesting moves to lean into the sidepulls at the roof and cross through it. The Beta is height-dependent. This is the crux of the climb physically. Climb mellow territory passing a small tree on its right side (a medium stopper to the right will keep the rope off of the tree), and then trend left to good holds up on the left side of the blunt arete above, staying left of it and of the North Face route.
Once you pass the small tree, the next 50' are the mental crux and is a little adventurous. Protection is adequate but not always near nor easy to place, so a little wandering and a solid head are necessary. After 50' of this, you reach a low angle section above the tree, and head up and right on that to a cusp of rock on the east ridge. Set a belay there.
From this position, it is about 70m up the mellow East Face (5.5?) to the summit and 15m more to the anchors, all with uncharacteristically good protection for a Flatiron.
The crux is protected by a small cam - perhaps blue alien or smaller if you desire more than 1 cam there.