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Routes in The Matron

East Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Father Knows Best T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Human Experiment, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
North Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Face Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pasta Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Quiche on a Leash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Serpentine Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunday Comix T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Warlocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
West Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 135 ft
FA: C. Harrison, A Torrisi, 1982
Page Views: 271 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 16, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a good but overlooked route. My partner and I agreed that the climbing was better than the 1-star the Haas book suggests, but a lack of traffic meant some lichen (no loose rock though) which might detract from the rated quality. This, however, is not a problem for an experienced leader, and I give the route 2* overall on this site, or maybe 3 if it cleans up and aesthetics improve.

Climb the parallel finger cracks low to get onto the wall (small cam protection) and then up to a good stance below the bulge/roof. Place a good small cam (very small) or 2 under the roof and do some interesting moves to lean into the sidepulls at the roof and cross through it. The Beta is height-dependent. This is the crux of the climb physically. Climb mellow territory passing a small tree on its right side (a medium stopper to the right will keep the rope off of the tree), and then trend left to good holds up on the left side of the blunt arete above, staying left of it and of the North Face route.

Once you pass the small tree, the next 50' are the mental crux and is a little adventurous. Protection is adequate but not always near nor easy to place, so a little wandering and a solid head are necessary. After 50' of this, you reach a low angle section above the tree, and head up and right on that to a cusp of rock on the east ridge. Set a belay there.

From this position, it is about 70m up the mellow East Face (5.5?) to the summit and 15m more to the anchors, all with uncharacteristically good protection for a Flatiron.

Location

This route starts on two parallel finger tips cracks at a bulge at the base of the wall, just East of the flat Boulder start for the North Face route. Start on these, more or less directly below the anchor for P1 of the North Face and follow them up and left for 10 feet to where they merge and then go though an interesting, well-protected, and exciting bulge/roof section and then left onto a juggy face with occasional protection to the top. You stay just left of a blunt arete most of the way, wandering a bit for occasional solid gear. Up top, fade back right to a belay on the ridge that takes camalots #.75,1,and 2 all in a row in a slot - which are bomber. This is 135' over the ground.

Protection

A single rack of stoppers and cams to 3" (#4 completely optional, but it can be placed if you haul it). Take a quiver of 2' runners, and an extra #.75,1, and 2 camamlot for the belay.
The crux is protected by a small cam - perhaps blue alien or smaller if you desire more than 1 cam there.

Photos

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Steve Annecone
boulder
  5.9+ PG13
Steve Annecone   boulder
  5.9+ PG13
I thought this was an excellent and spicy route. Just enough gear to keep it from being "dangerous" but plenty of thought-provoking moves well above gear on sometimes lichenous holds. Follows a nice, exposed, and very steep line for 5.9, and the grade seemed about right. Doesn't seem to get much traffic but it's well worth climbing. Sep 6, 2015