Avg: 4 from 5 votes
Routes in The Matron
|East Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Father Knows Best T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Human Experiment, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|North Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|North Face Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Pasta Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Quiche on a Leash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Serpentine Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Sunday Comix T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X|
|Warlocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|West Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Type:||Sport, 115 ft|
|FA:||S. Annecone and B. Ruckman, Oct. 25, 2014|
|Page Views:||1,840 total, 49/month|
|Shared By:||Steve Annecone on Oct 28, 2014|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe route name was inspired by the rattlesnake we almost stepped on while approaching the climb, as well as the sinuous nature of the line.
This climb goes up the steep and blank-looking panel of rock on the north face of the Matron. This part of the Matron reminds me of the Roof Routes in Eldorado. Climb up the chimney formed by the massive flake perched near the base, and stem across the gap to clip the first bolt. A nearby horn can be slung if the exposure feels too spooky.
From the first bolt, pull onto a wild band of conglomerate knobs, and follow the rising, knobby traverse up and right past the first 4 bolts. This traverse is 5.11-ish and reminiscent of Velvet Elvis. A crack appears suddenly above the 4th bolt, and a piece of pro here will be helpful to better protect a tricky sequence working up to the 5th bolt.
Crank up past the 6th bolt to the 7th, and arrive at a suddenly blank sheet of rock with few but mostly crisp and clean holds. The business of this pitch is climbing through the next 20 feet of thin climbing past 3 more bolts. There are lots of devious sequences, high steps, and interesting movement through there. Once through this section, larger holds allow easier 5.10 and 11- climbing to the arete (where it merges with the top of the West Face's 1st pitch) and then to the anchor.
LocationThe start is located about 20 feet right of Northwest Crack and about 30 feet left of Father Knows Best. It starts inside the obvious chimney.
Rappel to the north or to the west from the existing 2-bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch of the West Face (those are nice, beefy glue-ins, as opposed to the scarefest bolts encountered lower on that pitch).