Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: G. Lamb, R Sutton, 1953
Page Views: 335 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 17, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a fairly good route and much more independent that the name might suggest. This pitch shares nothing but the belay with the standard North Face route.

Start in the huge and obvious, left-facing dihedral up and right 15 meters from the North Face proper. Climb the corner past occasional placements, and also use a crack on the left side face. At a fixed pin, go up and left a move (back it up with gear) onto the left face and then up to a horizontal crack and ledge system even with the tree and anchor at the top of the regular North Face P1.

Traversing over, be mindful to protect the second, as a fall for them on a runout would be little different than a lead fall. This is not a good intro climb for inexperienced followers or leaders.

Location

This route is the huge and obvious, left-facing dihedral up and right 15 meters from the North Face proper. The route climbs up this to level with the tree and anchor on the normal P1 and then traverses left to it on sparse gear.

Protection

A light rack of cams and stoppers will protect this as well as it can be protected, with a few old pins (back them up, as one is snapped off!) as well. Since the route follows a huge arc, take long runners.

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