Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Matron

East Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Father Knows Best T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
North Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Face Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pasta Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Quiche on a Leash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Serpentine Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunday Comix T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Warlocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
West Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: G. Lamb, R Sutton, 1953
Page Views: 320 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jun 17, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a fairly good route and much more independent that the name might suggest. This pitch shares nothing but the belay with the standard North Face route.

Start in the huge and obvious, left-facing dihedral up and right 15 meters from the North Face proper. Climb the corner past occasional placements, and also use a crack on the left side face. At a fixed pin, go up and left a move (back it up with gear) onto the left face and then up to a horizontal crack and ledge system even with the tree and anchor at the top of the regular North Face P1.

Traversing over, be mindful to protect the second, as a fall for them on a runout would be little different than a lead fall. This is not a good intro climb for inexperienced followers or leaders.

Location

This route is the huge and obvious, left-facing dihedral up and right 15 meters from the North Face proper. The route climbs up this to level with the tree and anchor on the normal P1 and then traverses left to it on sparse gear.

Protection

A light rack of cams and stoppers will protect this as well as it can be protected, with a few old pins (back them up, as one is snapped off!) as well. Since the route follows a huge arc, take long runners.

Photos

- No Photos -

0 Comments

More About North Face Right

Printer-Friendly