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North Face Right
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British PG13
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Routes in The Matron
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East Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Father Knows Best T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Human Experiment, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Lost in America T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Matronaton T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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North Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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North Face Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Pasta Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Quiche on a Leash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Serpentine Dreams S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Soten S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sunday Comix T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Warlocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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West Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | G. Lamb, R Sutton, 1953 |
| Page Views: | 1,023 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 17, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This is a fairly good route and much more independent that the name might suggest. This pitch shares nothing but the belay with the standard North Face route.
Start in the huge and obvious, left-facing dihedral up and right 15 meters from the North Face proper. Climb the corner past occasional placements, and also use a crack on the left side face. At a fixed pin, go up and left a move (back it up with gear) onto the left face and then up to a horizontal crack and ledge system even with the tree and anchor at the top of the regular North Face P1.
Traversing over, be mindful to protect the second, as a fall for them on a runout would be little different than a lead fall. This is not a good intro climb for inexperienced followers or leaders.
Start in the huge and obvious, left-facing dihedral up and right 15 meters from the North Face proper. Climb the corner past occasional placements, and also use a crack on the left side face. At a fixed pin, go up and left a move (back it up with gear) onto the left face and then up to a horizontal crack and ledge system even with the tree and anchor at the top of the regular North Face P1.
Traversing over, be mindful to protect the second, as a fall for them on a runout would be little different than a lead fall. This is not a good intro climb for inexperienced followers or leaders.
Location
This route is the huge and obvious, left-facing dihedral up and right 15 meters from the North Face proper. The route climbs up this to level with the tree and anchor on the normal P1 and then traverses left to it on sparse gear.
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