Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 120 ft|
|Page Views:||764 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Oct 18, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionFind and do the West Face route on the Matron and note the face just to it's right, going more or less up the center of the West Face (which actually faces SW and gets sun by 10am this time of year). Climb up this to a set of fixed anchors to the left. One can continue to the summit on West Face.
Rap via a 60m+ line to the West (CAREFUL!) or to the North, where a 60m and probably even a 50M would reach the ground.
ProtectionYou can TR this route from the anchors as for the West Face (minor swing potential) or you can "lead" it.This route has been refered to as 'S' in print, but I believe it is 'VS.' Aside of a few medium nuts and then a large nut or a solid tricam 20-30 feet up, most of the rest of the route, including the insecure crux, is exposed to ground fall potential. Perhaps some great amount of wandering about could have lead me to find potential gear placements, but I did the route on TR and I liked it just fine that way, since it appeared very much that a lead was the equivalent of a solo.
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