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Routes in The Matron
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East Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Father Knows Best T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Human Experiment, The S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Lost in America T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Matronaton T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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North Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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North Face Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Pasta Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Quiche on a Leash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Serpentine Dreams S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Soten S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sunday Comix T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Warlocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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West Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Michael LaDue, Marshall Winter; Aug. 2024 |
| Page Views: | 35 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Michael L on Aug 10, 2024 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
Matronaton AKA Don't Matronize Me! follows the obvious, right-leaning, discontinuous crack that shares a start with pitch 1 of Soten. Climb the first 6 - 7 bolts of Soten's P1, then bust right to get into the crack. Follow the crack up and right, stepping down onto the face / utilizing face holds as it makes sense. Eventually after a rightward traverse, pull a final bulge, and top out just below the South Face. Follow the easy slab up to the south face crack/ledge to belay (hand-sized pieces for an anchor). You can easily downclimb on low 5th Class from there to the P1 anchor on Soten and rappel, or continue on South Face.
A direct/fully independent start is possible but not recommended due to bad rock.
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