Quiche on a Leash
Avg: 2.8 from 4 votes
Routes in The Matron
|East Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Father Knows Best T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Human Experiment, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|North Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|North Face Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13|
|Pasta Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Quiche on a Leash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Serpentine Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Sunday Comix T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X|
|Warlocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|West Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Type:||Trad, 110 ft|
|Page Views:||810 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||George Bracksieck on Aug 27, 2013|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionClimb the left crack in the left-leaning, left-facing dihedral, eventually merging with "Real Men..." and tunneling through the needle's eye.
In March 1978, I was at the Matron with Andrew Shepherd and Bob Forbes. I noticed this line and wanted to try it. While one belayed, the other took photos with my camera. I onsighted the route, finding no in-situ pins, bolts, or slings on the route, nor at its top. Neither Andy nor Bob could follow past the first crux. Some four years later, other climbers claimed the FA and named the route.
During most of my long climbing career, I just went climbing, often leaving no trace, and never bothered to name those experiences or transmit those to guidebook authors. Until a few years ago, I never bothered to publish climbs I did, even after someone else claimed a FA of the route long after I climbed it. Now, MP makes posting routes and comments easy.