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Routes in The Matron

East Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Father Knows Best T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Human Experiment, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
North Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
North Face Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Pasta Man T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Quiche on a Leash T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Real Men Don't Eat Quiche T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Serpentine Dreams S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
South Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunday Comix T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X
Warlocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
West Face T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 810 total, 16/month
Shared By: George Bracksieck on Aug 27, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

Climb the left crack in the left-leaning, left-facing dihedral, eventually merging with "Real Men..." and tunneling through the needle's eye.

In March 1978, I was at the Matron with Andrew Shepherd and Bob Forbes. I noticed this line and wanted to try it. While one belayed, the other took photos with my camera. I onsighted the route, finding no in-situ pins, bolts, or slings on the route, nor at its top. Neither Andy nor Bob could follow past the first crux. Some four years later, other climbers claimed the FA and named the route.

During most of my long climbing career, I just went climbing, often leaving no trace, and never bothered to name those experiences or transmit those to guidebook authors. Until a few years ago, I never bothered to publish climbs I did, even after someone else claimed a FA of the route long after I climbed it. Now, MP makes posting routes and comments easy.

Location

It shares opening and closing sections with "Real Men...." This is to the left of the standard North Face route.

Protection

No pins or bolts were on the route in 1978. My rack was composed of stoppers and hexes. Today I would take a set of wires and cams.

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Scary chockstone wedged by crumbling arete was pretty ready to go. Going, going, gone.... We cleaned it. Maybe 100+ lbs?

The low crux is a bit dirty right now on the feet. Multiple small nuts and cams are at waist or higher and more or less keep you on TR there. The higher cruxes are more interesting, less slick, and also maybe 10a. Pretty good route, overall. Oct 8, 2016
Steve Annecone
boulder
  5.10c
Steve Annecone   boulder
  5.10c
A very nice and adventurous line that doesn't seem to get climbed much. I thought there were numerous 5.9 and 5.10 cruxes throughout on steep rock, with the hardest moves probably being the lieback about 25 feet up. There was a bit of loose rock in places, but it was easily avoided and didn't really detract from the quality of the climb. There's a scary-looking chockstone block about 35-40 feet up the route, but it is surprisingly stable... my partner couldn't get it to budge after kicking it hard. Plenty of exposure and excellent position! The "eye of the needle" finish is awesome 5.7 or 5.8 squeeze. Suggest bringing a double set of hand- and fist-sized cams. Sep 6, 2015