[Hide Comment] The descent can be done with two single rope rappels provided you have a 60m rope (200ft). The second rappel finishes on top of a large flake (20ft tall and 2 feet wide. From there, it's an easy downclimb. I did it with a 50m rope and had to use the last inch of the rope (had to untie the knots on the rope) and stem like mad to make it onto the flake.... Not recommended.... Jul 9, 2001

[Hide Comment] The trick on the second rap (if you only have a 50m rope), is NOT to go down the north face. Head down the arete to the west, right next to the West Face route. The rope easily reaches the ground here. Make sure you are using the lower rap anchor (2 nice bolts), not the one at 60' shown in Rossiter. Aug 6, 2001

[Hide Comment] As George mentioned, on rappel #1 (using a 60m rope length), continue past a single eyebolt (notice large raptor nest on left with interwoven purple webbing) to a pair of eyebolts another 20' farther down (southwest). From here a 60m rope will reach the flake & talus. This final rappel is approx. 90', and if done to the north, provides a splendid free rappell off the slightly overhanging wall. A great finish! Aug 1, 2002

[Hide Comment] I did this climb yesterday -- very enjoyable! Fun moves, and great positions on the rock. Rappelling off (going north from the lower set of bolts on the second rappel), I noticed that there is an interesting-looking bolted route just to the right (when facing the rock) of the rappel line. The route is near the far west edge of the north face, and doesn't seem to be described in Rossiter's guidebook. The first bolt is near the top of a left facing flake, the second just above a small overhang (it looks like the clip could be made from beneath the overhang, though), and at least three more bolts beyond a little ramp that's above the second bolt. Does anyone know the rating of this route, and when it was put up? Nov 23, 2002

[Hide Comment] Jake, I too have seen the bolts you refer to. These may be the route in Rossiter "Soul Survivor (5.11, Charlie Fowler ca. 1982)". Don't you step off a flake to start the route, as described in Rossiter? Rossiter does not mention any bolts, but it is a very brief route description with no topo. Nov 23, 2002

[Hide Comment] George: I noticed that "Soul Survivor" looked to be in pretty much the same location as the bolted route, but I would have assumed that Rossiter would have mentioned the shiny new bolts. Without the bolts (i.e., if it had been retrobolted after Rossiter's guidebook were published), then I would have thought he would have given it an "s" rating originally -- it would be pretty spicy without the bolts. And I don't know what "step off a flake" means -- is that the same thing as following the flake up for 15-20 feet to the overhang? In any event, despite my confusion and uncertainty, I can say for sure that it looks like a pretty fun pitch. Nov 23, 2002

[Hide Comment] Regarding the bolted route seen from the cool overhanging rappell; I put it up with Mark Hirt in the late '80's, bolted on rappell, it is not the Fowler route. It is 5.11 something and there is now a missing pin after the bulge between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. A small or medium sized cam would do. I think we called it "Father Knows Best" as my Dad, a general contractor, had helped me procure some some bolts and a drill for the project (this is when you could still drill with impunity in the Flatirons). Alison Sheets May 26, 2003

[Hide Comment] Cool. Thanks for the info; it looks like a pretty sweet line. May 26, 2003

[Hide Comment] Kudos to this site. I came here with a question that was incredibly answered by Alison. I don't find the route descriptions in Roach to be accurate. The Rossiter topos are necessary for the variations on P1, all of which are an excellent diversion before topping out to climb the rap routes. Jun 12, 2004

[Hide Comment] This great route can be done in three pitches with a 60m rope. Do pitch one as desribed w/ belay at the tree. Pitch 2 should use a belay at about 160-170 feet using a large vertical crack with a good #3 Camalot placement and nuts. Pitch 3 can take you all the way to the summit. Enjoy. Sep 6, 2004

[Hide Comment] The 5.6 part is fun but way too short. Not sure why everyone belays at the tree, as this makes the interesting climbing on P2 pretty short - better to go all the way to the E Face on P1 I think. There is a loose block masquerading as a bomber hand-hold just below the "cave" that is below the crux flake on P1 - be careful! On the second rap, 1 60m rope will get you to the ground (rather than the top of the fin/flake) if you rap to the north. These 2 eye-bolts are better than average but are NOT modern rap bolts (a little scary to me). A good route with nice position but not stellar in my book. Aug 15, 2006

[Hide Comment] Climbed it tonight in two pitches. A 60m rope was exactly long enough to reach a great belay crack (#2/#3 cams) high on the east ridge... but there wasn't any rope to spare! It's probably best done in three pitches. Nov 6, 2007

[Hide Comment] Climbed this today; P1 - up to the tree, 3 pins that could be clipped, the 4th is rotated down so much that it seemed inaccessible.

P2 - up the crack/flake & onto the E. Face...almost to the big tree way up high. 3rd pitch - up the headwall and to the summit. (60m rope).

Rapped of the Fixe ring anchors through the slot in the overhang down to the 2 bolt anchor below. Then a quick descent to the bottom of the West face. Aug 2, 2009

[Hide Comment] Fun route and outstanding double-rappel. Did it in three pitches with a 70m rope. First pitch is definitely the best, following a nice crack up a vertical wall. The other two pitches are standard Flatiron face climbs going about 5.2 with few places for protection. Would give the climb and raps four stars if not for the long approach. Sep 20, 2009

[Hide Comment] Although it is possible to get off with a single 60 or 70 meter rope, it's better to use 2 ropes and rappel down the West Face--spectacular rappel. This is one of the best climbs in the Boulder region; not terribly difficult, but simply a classic excursion to a unique summit.

As a note; this was the third climb of my career, back in 1959! It still is memorable. Jul 21, 2010

[Hide Comment] Pitched it out in 3 pitches. Running the first two caused some rope drag, especially since the belay station at the ridgeline isn't the best. All the climbing on the ridge up to the summit is extremely easy but as is noted protection is very sparse. Choose your belay spot carefully and keep an eye out for creative protection.

Brought a single rack from blue TCU all the way up to #3 Camalot and placed everything. Put an alpine draw on every single piece you place or regret it later on.

Rap station is on the far west end of the summit, look for the shiny rings.

Two raps worked nicely. The second rap station is NOT the ancient eyebolt you see as you go down the southwest face. The newer rap anchors are just a little bit lower. They're hard to see from up above, keep an eye out for them. Bringing approach shoes might be a good idea, since it's a short boulder hop back to the start of the climb. May 19, 2013

[Hide Comment] Best climb I've done in the Flatirons. I thought the gear was really good compared to other things I've done in the area. Definitely not a R rated climb. Rapped with 70m and a tag line... it was awesome. Jun 1, 2013

[Hide Comment] 10/8/16 - Tony B. and I were finishing up Quiche on a Leash, and we spoke with the three of guys. We trundled that rock and you videoed (it would be sweet to see the footage). We did get your draw off the first pitch of the North Route. Contact me through MP to get it back, both of us have PLENTY of booty gear! Oct 12, 2016

[Hide Comment] Belaying at the tree makes pitch 1 very short, so it makes more sense to finish pitch 1 somewhere on the east face. Just don't use the large block where the north face meets the east face. It is not stable. On the first rappel, you will go past a single eyebolt (very old). If you stop there, you can lean out and see the double bolted anchor below you and a little bit to the south. Continue there, but be warned it is above a very small ledge with only enough room for one person to stand. Your partner will need to hang on the anchor while you rethread the rope. The second rappel will take you down the north face to the ground. A 60m rope is sufficient for both rappels. Oct 23, 2016

[Hide Comment] Beautiful hike up Shadow Canyon, had the whole Matron to ourselves, first two pitches protect good. Once on the ridge, it's easy climbing but difficult to protect in spots. Rappelled twice with one 60m rope. Oct 3, 2017

[Hide Comment] Climbing guidebooks from early to mid-eighties showed FA by Karl Gustafson and Skip Greene. I knew Skip and spoke with him on numerous occasions regarding this classic climb. Feb 10, 2021

[Hide Comment] On the first set of rappel rings, I went skier's left - big mistake. Don't do that. Our second rappel was on an old pair of rusty hangers, and our single 60m rope did not reach the ground. My guess is we should have rapped straight down on the first rings. Aug 27, 2021

[Hide Comment] Exciting route. The modern difficulty and protection ratings for this climb, in my opinion, are 5.7 G for the first North Face pitch and 5.4 R for the remaining east-face pitches. Don't use the tree as a first-pitch belay or bail anchor - it is nearly dead. The first rap anchor seems solid enough. The second rap anchor is barely adequate and needs replacing. A cautious climber might consider bringing a second 60 meter rope for a single 57 meter rappel to the northwest corner of the rock. Oct 10, 2023