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Routes in (6) First Cave

3 Days, 30 Meters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Agar Jelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Breezy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calypso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cape to the Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clean Face S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Commissary Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deceiving Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desert, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Heaven's Falling T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hornet's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Missionary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muddy Undercling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorry Valentine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teratism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Visage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Walkway S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Westbound Road T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wonderland Fairy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Nate Ball et al (10/2016)
Page Views: 64 total · 3/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Oct 2, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball

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Description

There are actually four variation starts to this route.

5.7 start: From the boulder, grab the jugs and step left. Committing but well-protected. Pull up the brief slab in the slight corner to much easier climbing over ledges above.

5.8 start: Pull up into the chimney then either stem up or lean back into the wall behind and grind your way up.

5.?? start: This has not been done, but you could walk all the way to the back of the cave and climb the nearly-90-degree hand crack through the overhang for about 15 feet to where it joins the "chimney start."

5.10 start: Right of the chimney, follow left-trending cracks through a chunky bulge. At this bulge, use the chunks to pull through or lay-back off good finger jams to easier flake climbing above.

All three of these options take you into the very low-angle climbing up this weakness to slight overhang where the cliff is overcome by dirt and grass. Avoid the nastiness by stepping left then mantel up to a stance at a solid horizontal at which you can build a gear anchor.

Currently the anchor is not bolted and thus you must down-climb the route to clean. A bolted anchor could service this route and provide a more direct finish to Muddy Undercling.

Location

On the South Claw of First Cave. North-facing wall. The deep low-angle weakness right of the roof.

Protection

Gear to 2"

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