Type: Trad, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Nate Ball et al (10/2016)
Page Views: 629 total · 7/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Oct 2, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball

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Description Suggest change

There are actually four variation starts to this route.

5.7 start: From the boulder, grab the jugs and step left. Committing but well-protected. Pull up the brief slab in the slight corner to much easier climbing over ledges above.

5.8 start: Pull up into the chimney then either stem up or lean back into the wall behind and grind your way up.

5.?? start: This has not been done, but you could walk all the way to the back of the cave and climb the nearly-90-degree hand crack through the overhang for about 15 feet to where it joins the "chimney start."

5.10 start: Right of the chimney, follow left-trending cracks through a chunky bulge. At this bulge, use the chunks to pull through or lay-back off good finger jams to easier flake climbing above.

All three of these options take you into the very low-angle climbing up this weakness to slight overhang where the cliff is overcome by dirt and grass. Avoid the nastiness by stepping left then mantel up to a stance at a solid horizontal at which you can build a gear anchor.

Currently the anchor is not bolted and thus you must down-climb the route to clean. A bolted anchor could service this route and provide a more direct finish to Muddy Undercling.

Location Suggest change

On the South Claw of First Cave. North-facing wall. The deep low-angle weakness right of the roof.

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 2"