Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 65 ft|
|FA:||Nate Ball et al (10/2016)|
|Page Views:||55 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Ball on Oct 2, 2016|
Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details
Accelerated corrosion that targets stainless steel bolts (SCC) has caused multiple failures, including both anchor bolts on a route that a climber was being lowered off of. Please read the BOLTS note on the main page. You can also help the cause by visiting the Bivy during your stay and giving QX some reds, whites, or if youre feeling generous, some BLUES!
DescriptionThere are actually four variation starts to this route.
5.7 start: From the boulder, grab the jugs and step left. Committing but well-protected. Pull up the brief slab in the slight corner to much easier climbing over ledges above.
5.8 start: Pull up into the chimney then either stem up or lean back into the wall behind and grind your way up.
5.?? start: This has not been done, but you could walk all the way to the back of the cave and climb the nearly-90-degree hand crack through the overhang for about 15 feet to where it joins the "chimney start."
5.10 start: Right of the chimney, follow left-trending cracks through a chunky bulge. At this bulge, use the chunks to pull through or lay-back off good finger jams to easier flake climbing above.
All three of these options take you into the very low-angle climbing up this weakness to slight overhang where the cliff is overcome by dirt and grass. Avoid the nastiness by stepping left then mantel up to a stance at a solid horizontal at which you can build a gear anchor.
Currently the anchor is not bolted and thus you must down-climb the route to clean. A bolted anchor could service this route and provide a more direct finish to Muddy Undercling.