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Routes in (6) First Cave

3 Days, 30 Meters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Agar Jelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Breezy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calypso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cape to the Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clean Face S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Commissary Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deceiving Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desert, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Heaven's Falling T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hornet's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Missionary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muddy Undercling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorry Valentine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teratism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walkway S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Westbound Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wonderland Fairy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 639 total, 10/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Aug 31, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Start up the crack where the huge boulder creates a choke-point with the wall. Climb through the dihedral onto a grassy ledge - beware of loose rock! Continue up into another obtuse, clean dihedral on dark red stone, then out a thin mini-overhang onto another another grassy ledge. Again, beware! Optionally belay here on titanium bolts (2015).

From here, move up into the great 3-4" splitter on white-gold stone for 40 feet and into an alcove. Continue up the wide crack in the back. Go straight up the crack - beware of big loose blocks to the right - onto a ledge with titanium bolts (2015) or scramble up to the ridge top. Use a single 316-steel bolt (2005) backed up with a nut, and enjoy the view from your phenomenal belay perch. You could even continue from here up Dragon Ridge or Missionary to the tourist trail...

Descent: Use the titanium bolts below the ridge top to rappel to the ledge below the wide crack, and then again from there to the ground (60m rope recommended).

There is also a 316-steel anchor near the ridge top. If you rappel down the north side, beware that it's 34m to the ground. A 60m will get you down with some shenanigans...

Location

On Lower Dragon Ridge, just outside the First Cave; the south-facing wall. It's just left of lines like Calypso and Noodle Line.

Protection

Gear to 4" (3-4" x2)
Helmets!
Titanium anchor bolts at halfway and near the top

Photos

Danger
Taipei City
Danger   Taipei City
As mentioned, be aware that there are not just loose rocks but loose blocks on the upper section of the climb.

The blocks should hold weight for a move or two(though being careful after typhoons earthquakes is smart) but when placing pieces make sure you are bracing them against solid stone. Apr 13, 2014