Type: Trad, 180 ft (55 m)
GPS: 25.1091, 121.9222
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,638 total · 10/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Aug 31, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

There are two start options, left and right. Both are about the same: tough jamming off the ground to easy scrambling. When you arrive at a grassy ledge, step gingerly and watch where your rope runs to avoid dislodging any loose rock. Continue up into another obtuse, clean dihedral on dark red stone, pulling a final strenuous exit move onto another another grassy ledge. Again, beware! Optionally belay, which can be used for sport routes to the right.

Grapple with a bush and establish yourself in the great 3-4" splitter. Climb white-gold stone for 40 feet, pulling an airy wide crux into an alcove. Continue up the wide crack in the back, either foregoing or bumping gear here to avoid extreme rope drag. Go straight up the crack in the face to avoid big loose blocks out right. Finish at a second set of titanium bolts. Rap the route.

Location Suggest change

On Lower Dragon Ridge, just outside the First Cave; the south-facing wall. It's just left of lines like Calypso and Noodle Line. Start up either of two cracks where the huge boulder creates a choke-point with the wall. 

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 4" (3-4" x2)

Helmets!

Titanium anchor bolts (2015) at halfway and near the top

Photos

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