Avg: 3.6 from 7 votes
Routes in (6) First Cave
|3 Days, 30 Meters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Agar Jelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R|
|Breezy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Calypso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Cape to the Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Clean Face S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Commissary Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Crow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Deceiving Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Desert, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Dragon Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Grass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Heaven's Falling T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Hornet's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Missionary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Muddy Undercling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Noodle Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Sorry Valentine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Teratism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Walkway S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Westbound Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Wonderland Fairy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft|
|Page Views:||639 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Ball on Aug 31, 2012|
Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details
Accelerated corrosion that targets stainless steel bolts (SCC) has caused multiple failures, including both anchor bolts on a route that a climber was being lowered off of. Please read the BOLTS note on the main page. You can also help the cause by visiting the Bivy during your stay and giving QX some reds, whites, or if youre feeling generous, some BLUES!
DescriptionStart up the crack where the huge boulder creates a choke-point with the wall. Climb through the dihedral onto a grassy ledge - beware of loose rock! Continue up into another obtuse, clean dihedral on dark red stone, then out a thin mini-overhang onto another another grassy ledge. Again, beware! Optionally belay here on titanium bolts (2015).
From here, move up into the great 3-4" splitter on white-gold stone for 40 feet and into an alcove. Continue up the wide crack in the back. Go straight up the crack - beware of big loose blocks to the right - onto a ledge with titanium bolts (2015) or scramble up to the ridge top. Use a single 316-steel bolt (2005) backed up with a nut, and enjoy the view from your phenomenal belay perch. You could even continue from here up Dragon Ridge or Missionary to the tourist trail...
Descent: Use the titanium bolts below the ridge top to rappel to the ledge below the wide crack, and then again from there to the ground (60m rope recommended).
There is also a 316-steel anchor near the ridge top. If you rappel down the north side, beware that it's 34m to the ground. A 60m will get you down with some shenanigans...