Mountain Project Logo

Routes in (6) First Cave

3 Days, 30 Meters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Agar Jelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Breezy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calypso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cape to the Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clean Face S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Commissary Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deceiving Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desert, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Heaven's Falling T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hornet's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Missionary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muddy Undercling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorry Valentine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teratism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walkway S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Westbound Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wonderland Fairy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Jeff Wang 3/91
Page Views: 68 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Feb 18, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

A very physical route. You will be arms deep in this thing no matter how you pull it off. It's also very sharp, so long sleeves and/or tape gloves are recommended. Start up the dihedral with fists and hands, using feet on both walls and legs in the crack. Make an awkward exit around a big flake and up to a nice ledge.

Location

Lower Dragon Ridge of First Cave. South-facing wall. Left-leaning dihedral just before you turn the corner to Grand Auditorium.

Protection

Gear to 3"
Titanium anchors (2016)

Photos

BrianWS  
Fun line, led it on a few hexes when I didn't have a functional rack nor common sense. It was a full on sport-climber-out-of-his-element layback shitshow for the ages, and I think I ended up dropping a larger piece into the crack, never to be seen again.

The bolted lines to the left and right of the corner are excellent, too. Fun little buttress, and such a beautiful view of the pacific. Feb 24, 2017