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Routes in (6) First Cave

3 Days, 30 Meters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Agar Jelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Breezy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calypso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cape to the Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clean Face S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Commissary Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deceiving Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desert, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Heaven's Falling T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hornet's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Missionary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muddy Undercling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorry Valentine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teratism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Visage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Walkway S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Westbound Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wonderland Fairy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 46 total · 1/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Dec 21, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

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Access Issue: Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

This is the natural extension of Heaven's Falling. Climb onto the ledge above those anchors and continue up through the ledgy red rock. Gear here may be tenuous, but the climbing is casual. Get up into the flaky finger cracks and pull through the dead-vertical wall. Protection is obvious, though be aware of possibly loose sections. The exposure builds as you reach the anchor and have to mount the block to clip in.

Location

Lower Dragon Ridge, left of obvious Commissary Crack. Follows the thin cracks through the upper headwall.

Protection

Gear to 1.5"
Dangerous lead bolts (2004)
Titanium anchors (2014)

Photos

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Danger
Taipei City
Danger   Taipei City
Bring a rack if you want to climb this safely - there is a runout after the first ledge which can be easily protected with gear, and one of the bolts near the top has a crack through it. May 31, 2015

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