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Routes in (6) First Cave

3 Days, 30 Meters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Agar Jelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Breezy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calypso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cape to the Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clean Face S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Commissary Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deceiving Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desert, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Heaven's Falling T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hornet's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Missionary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muddy Undercling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorry Valentine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teratism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walkway S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Westbound Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wonderland Fairy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jau-Kuen Wu
Page Views: 44 total, 1/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Feb 18, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Start as for Breezy, but instead of stepping left continue straight up the crack. Finger jams through the overhang, a big pull over the lip, and some clutch hand jams bring you into an easy face and a final fun flake before you reach a ledge and anchors.

There is often a puddle at the base of this climb, and it can be tough to keep your rope out of it.

Location

On the South Claw of First Cave. North-facing wall. The continuous crack from the ground through the "wave" overhang.

Protection

Gear to 1"
316 steel (2011)

Photos

Danger
Taipei City
  5.10c
Danger   Taipei City
  5.10c
sweet moves on a short tricky line. a finger lock past the overhang helps a great deal, as does faith in feet and gear. Apr 13, 2014