Heart Shaped Rice Cake
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Routes in (6) First Cave
|3 Days, 30 Meters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Agar Jelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R|
|Breezy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Calypso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Cape to the Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Clean Face S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Commissary Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Crow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Deceiving Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Desert, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Dragon Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Grass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Heaven's Falling T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Hornet's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Missionary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Muddy Undercling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Noodle Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Sorry Valentine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Teratism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Walkway S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Westbound Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Wonderland Fairy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||187 total, 4/month|
|Shared By:||BrianWS on Nov 26, 2013|
Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details
Accelerated corrosion that targets stainless steel bolts (SCC) has caused multiple failures, including both anchor bolts on a route that a climber was being lowered off of. Please read the BOLTS note on the main page. You can also help the cause by visiting the Bivy during your stay and giving QX some reds, whites, or if youre feeling generous, some BLUES!
DescriptionA very long route by local standard, and an excellent one at that.
P1: Climb the slightly overhanging wall, passing a few small tiered roofs and a bit of wobbly rock along the way to a 2-bolt anchor at a decent stance. 10 bolts.
P2: The quality pitch! There are cruxes gaining the L-facing dihedral and transitioning onto the billboard of rock that finishes the route. Transitioning left and pulling onto this face is thrilling, with nothing but air below your feet. Work through a few hard tugs on the slabby face to the second set of anchors. 14 bolts.
You could probably get away with bringing far less (maybe 18) and stringing both pitches into one. You'd need a few long runners and possibly misguided faith in the older sea-worn bolts. Good gear might be found in the many horizontals if wary of the bolts.
When I climbed this, it could be rapped with one 60m rope from the second anchors, which would deposit you part way up the huge mound of dirt and rock outside of the cave. Scramble down the pile for about 50 feet or so to the trail.
The height of the mound may have changed since then, so plan ahead and bring two ropes or break the descent into 2 separate rappels.
LocationOne of the first routes as you exit the First Cave. If facing the cave from the ocean, this will be on the right side of the entrance, to the right of the giant mound of dirt.
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