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Routes in (6) First Cave
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Agar Jelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Boba Milk Tea 波霸奶茶 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Breezy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Calypso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cape to the Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Clean Face S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Commissary Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deceiving Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Desert, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dragon Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Freddy's Nightmare T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Grass S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Heaven's Falling T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hornet's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jabba the Hutt 赫特族的賈霸 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lucid Dreaming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Missionary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Muddy Undercling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Noodle Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Poopee 便便噓噓 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Reggae T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shark Attack 鯊魚攻擊 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sorry Erica S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sorry Valentine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Teratism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Visage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Walkway S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Westbound Road T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wonderland Fairy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Nate Ball, Ya-Te Chen (4/16) |
| Page Views: | 933 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Ball on Mar 3, 2016 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
Description
From the cave of Wilson Overhang, start either to the left on the bolts of Sorry Valentine or to the right on a left-leaning diagonal. If you choose the right option, or the cave overhang, continue up into and through the chimney above. No matter how you do it, you will end up at a ledge with new titanium bolts.
The second pitch moves straight up into the tight flare with a hand-crack. Beware of loose rock as you get into it. Pull through the brief crux (5.10) and continue up the crack with incredible features. End at another obvious ledge with titanium bolts to the left and right.
The third pitch moves up through some jumbly rock and into the roof. Traverse left along perfectly spaced horizontals and pull around the edge of the roof to a stance on a small grassy perch. Protection gets thin and the exposure mounts as you move up a slight groove to the anchor of an old sport climb. Pull over the lip onto the wide grassy ledge and build a gear belay.
From the last belay, traverse along the grassy ledge to the right, step over to the rocky pinnacle above Commissary Crack, and make a 34m rappel down the south side of the Grand Auditorium. A 60m should get you down with a little down climbing.
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