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Routes in (6) First Cave

3 Days, 30 Meters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Agar Jelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Breezy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calypso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cape to the Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clean Face S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Commissary Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deceiving Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desert, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Heaven's Falling T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hornet's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Missionary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muddy Undercling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorry Valentine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teratism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walkway S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Westbound Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wonderland Fairy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Nate Ball, Ya-Te Chen (4/16)
Page Views: 173 total, 8/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Mar 3, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

From the cave of Wilson Overhang, start either to the left on the bolts of Sorry Valentine or to the right on a left-leaning diagonal. If you choose the right option, or the cave overhang, continue up into and through the chimney above. No matter how you do it, you will end up at a ledge with (titanium bolts?) one good and one old bolt.

The second pitch moves straight up into the tight flare with a hand-crack. Beware of loose rock as you get into it. Pull through the brief crux (5.10) and continue up the crack with incredible features. End at another obvious ledge with titanium bolts to the right.

The third pitch moves up through some jumbly rock and into the roof. Traverse left along perfectly spaced horizontals and pull around the edge of the roof to a stance on a small grassy perch. Protection gets thin and the exposure mounts as you move up a slight groove to the anchor of an old sport climb. Pull over the lip onto the wide grassy ledge and build a gear belay. If not continuing upwards, you can traverse along the grassy ledge to the right, step over to the rocky pinnacle above Commissary crack, and make a 34m rappel down the south side of the Grand Auditorium. A 60m should get you down with a little down climbing.

The optional fourth pitch has been climbed, and is somewhat out of character with the rest of the climb at 5.10 R. From the grassy ledge, crawl through a half-tunnel to a tiny perch with titanium bolts. Re-belay, bring over your second, then bust up the crack above and expect some looseness. At the next grassy ledge make tenuous moves without gear and then continue through the bushes and belay off the gazebo.

Location

Above the little cave at the base of Lower Dragon Ridge

Protection

Gear to 3" (a few extra 1-3" pieces are nice for the 2nd pitch)

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