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Routes in (6) First Cave

3 Days, 30 Meters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Agar Jelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Breezy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calypso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cape to the Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clean Face S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Commissary Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deceiving Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desert, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Heaven's Falling T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hornet's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Missionary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muddy Undercling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorry Valentine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teratism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Visage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Walkway S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Westbound Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wonderland Fairy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 41 total · 2/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Oct 2, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball

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Access Issue: Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description [Edit]

Start as for The Desert, straight up into a deep pod below the roof. Cruise up this on jugs with pro in the back (be sure to extend). At the roof, step right and make a strenuous pull on jugs and jams. Once established on the face above, follow the easy crack to where it joins a big blunt flake on the left. Protect well here because, though it's easy, it's a run-out to the anchor.

This route would really benefit from having a new anchor placed at the top of the crack, which would alleviate the run-out and rope drag if top-roping, and could serve to open up several other lines to the right.

Location [Edit]

On the South Claw of First Cave. North-facing wall. The crack out the right side of the roof.

Protection [Edit]

Gear to 3"
316 steel anchors (2011)

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