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Routes in (6) First Cave

3 Days, 30 Meters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Agar Jelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Breezy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calypso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cape to the Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clean Face S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Commissary Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deceiving Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desert, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Heaven's Falling T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hornet's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Missionary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muddy Undercling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorry Valentine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teratism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walkway S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Westbound Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wonderland Fairy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 113 total, 2/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Nov 10, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

This is listed as two routes - Sorry Erica and Happy Valentine's Day - in the 2012 guidebook. The FA of both lines is Chih-Chung Wu, owner of STONE Bouldering Gym in Taipei, who notably rated them 10a. The right line goes up a literally impossible face to a lower anchor.

However, the natural line with the most consistent movement combines the bottom half of the right side with the top half of the left. The titanium bolts on the bottom half can be ignored in favor of a couple cams from 1-2" in horizontals. After this, follow steel bolts through bulges, slopers, and slight stances to an awkward ending. This climb has it all and is fairly sustained for LD (think Fucking Fall).

Location

Outside first cave, on Lower Dragon Ridge. If walking up, it's the buttress just past a big chimney and the slopey overhang of Fen Yuan Trap on your right.

Protection

316 steel (2012)
Gear to 2"

Photos

Danger
Taipei City
 
Danger   Taipei City
 
There's definitely that one awkward part veering way left at the 2nd bolt to avoid a blank section but it otherwise goes straight up. No bolts on the right necessary.

A picture's worth a thousand words:
imgur.com/4lDqLtU Apr 14, 2014
Climbed left line just like Dangers picture says. A bit awkward veering left at 2nd bolt, but the rest of the line more than makes up for it. Super fun climbing, felt a bit harder than 10a. Dec 6, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
The route Happy Valentine's Day has been rebolted with titanium. Jan 2, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
Danger, do you think the first three bolts down low are an actual line?

In my mind, the buttress has only one line which follows the weakness straight up the middle. The first three bolts on the left line force you to do some (subjectively) stupid climbing, and the last bolt on the right line is on an impossibly blank face. Thus my entry for Sorry Valentine. Apr 14, 2014