Type: Sport, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,258 total · 15/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Nov 10, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

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Description

This is listed as two routes - Sorry Erica and Happy Valentine's Day - in the 2012 guidebook. The FA of both lines is Chih-Chung Wu, owner of STONE Bouldering Gym in Taipei, who notably rated them 10a. The right line goes up a literally impossible face to a lower anchor.

However, the natural line with the most consistent movement combines the bottom half of the right side with the top half of the left. The titanium bolts on the bottom half can be ignored in favor of a couple cams from 1-2" in horizontals. After this, follow steel bolts through bulges, slopers, and slight stances to an awkward ending. This climb has it all and is fairly sustained for LD (think Fucking Fall).

Location

Outside first cave, on Lower Dragon Ridge. If walking up, it's the buttress just past a big chimney and the slopey overhang of Fen Yuan Trap on your right.

Protection

316 steel (2012)
Gear to 2"

Photos