Avg: 3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Sport, 65 ft|
|Page Views:||121 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Ball on Nov 10, 2013|
Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details
Accelerated corrosion that targets stainless steel bolts (SCC) has caused multiple failures, including both anchor bolts on a route that a climber was being lowered off of. Please read the BOLTS note on the main page. You can also help the cause by visiting the Bivy during your stay and giving QX some reds, whites, or if youre feeling generous, some BLUES!
DescriptionThis is listed as two routes - Sorry Erica and Happy Valentine's Day - in the 2012 guidebook. The FA of both lines is Chih-Chung Wu, owner of STONE Bouldering Gym in Taipei, who notably rated them 10a. The right line goes up a literally impossible face to a lower anchor.
However, the natural line with the most consistent movement combines the bottom half of the right side with the top half of the left. The titanium bolts on the bottom half can be ignored in favor of a couple cams from 1-2" in horizontals. After this, follow steel bolts through bulges, slopers, and slight stances to an awkward ending. This climb has it all and is fairly sustained for LD (think Fucking Fall).