Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 167 total · 3/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Nov 10, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route

3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


This is listed as two routes - Sorry Erica and Happy Valentine's Day - in the 2012 guidebook. The FA of both lines is Chih-Chung Wu, owner of STONE Bouldering Gym in Taipei, who notably rated them 10a. The right line goes up a literally impossible face to a lower anchor.

However, the natural line with the most consistent movement combines the bottom half of the right side with the top half of the left. The titanium bolts on the bottom half can be ignored in favor of a couple cams from 1-2" in horizontals. After this, follow steel bolts through bulges, slopers, and slight stances to an awkward ending. This climb has it all and is fairly sustained for LD (think Fucking Fall).


Outside first cave, on Lower Dragon Ridge. If walking up, it's the buttress just past a big chimney and the slopey overhang of Fen Yuan Trap on your right.


316 steel (2012)
Gear to 2"


Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
Danger, do you think the first three bolts down low are an actual line?

In my mind, the buttress has only one line which follows the weakness straight up the middle. The first three bolts on the left line force you to do some (subjectively) stupid climbing, and the last bolt on the right line is on an impossibly blank face. Thus my entry for Sorry Valentine. Apr 14, 2014
Taipei City
Danger   Taipei City
There's definitely that one awkward part veering way left at the 2nd bolt to avoid a blank section but it otherwise goes straight up. No bolts on the right necessary.

A picture's worth a thousand words:
imgur.com/4lDqLtU Apr 14, 2014
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
The route Happy Valentine's Day has been rebolted with titanium. Jan 2, 2017
Climbed left line just like Dangers picture says. A bit awkward veering left at 2nd bolt, but the rest of the line more than makes up for it. Super fun climbing, felt a bit harder than 10a. Dec 6, 2017
It's definitely two bolted routes, although I would suggest both are harder than graded in the book (5.10a). The right hand route faces a pretty blank face after the fourth bolt, which almost forces you to come quite left. The left hand line also forces you quite left at the beginning, but otherwise it's pretty much straight up. Jul 1, 2018
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
Yes, you can climb the first few bolts on the left, but this forces you way off the bolt line and thus I discourage going this way. The right bolt line forces you left at the blank face, and then you're on the same line. See the picture with red x's and black o's for the only line worth climbing. Jul 1, 2018