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Routes in (6) First Cave
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Agar Jelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Boba Milk Tea 波霸奶茶 T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Breezy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Calypso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cape to the Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Clean Face S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Commissary Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deceiving Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Desert, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dragon Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Freddy's Nightmare T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Grass S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Heaven's Falling T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hornet's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jabba the Hutt 赫特族的賈霸 T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lucid Dreaming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Missionary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Muddy Undercling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Noodle Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Poopee 便便噓噓 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Reggae T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Shark Attack 鯊魚攻擊 T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sorry Valentine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Teratism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Visage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Walkway S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Westbound Road T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wonderland Fairy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 170 ft (52 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | QX Cheang |
| Page Views: | 459 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Cheang Qing Xin on Oct 20, 2020 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
Description
Had an eye on this wall for a while but never really have the time to go up there to clean it.
One hot summer day we decided to get off our lazy butt and go climb something fun. Kelly and I did this route ground up climbing through choss and grass. Best pitch is Pitch 3 that spots a finger crack after a small roof.
P1 - Start with a hand crack and pull into a wide pod. Keep kicking or get your feet really high. Shimmer through the pod and climb the crack to a grassy ledge. Be aware there might still be loose stuff on this grassy ledge. 5.9
P2 - Climb off the anchor on the left and fire up a hand crack. This approach pitch have some ok slab climbing but its hard to protect. Keep looking and you will find some small gears. Belay on a grassy ledge on the left. 2 bolts. 5.8
P3 - The money pitch. Punch through the roof and fire through some finger crack. More thin climbing will lead you to a resting stance. From here you climb a .75 right leaning crack to the top anchor. This belay is shared with Agar Jelly. 5.10
Rap Agar Jelly and hike back to the base of the climb or rap the route with bolted rap stations.
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