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Routes in (6) First Cave

3 Days, 30 Meters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Agar Jelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Breezy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calypso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cape to the Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clean Face S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Commissary Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deceiving Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desert, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Heaven's Falling T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hornet's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Missionary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muddy Undercling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorry Valentine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teratism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Visage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Walkway S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Westbound Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wonderland Fairy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 75 total · 4/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Oct 2, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball

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Access Issue: Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description [Suggest Change]

The guidebook gives this a 12d rating, which must require you to avoid the jugs in the crack to the right. A fall at this point would be perfectly safe, and the sequence afterwards takes you right back to the bolt line, so it doesn't really make much sense to avoid it.

Anyway! Start up twin cracks, the right-most of which quickly becomes a deep pod. There is probably a sequence to avoid this, but again, it would be utterly contrived as you can easily and safely clip the bolts from the security of the pod. Sling the last bolt before the roof. Find the proper handles on the lip and don't be afraid to get your feet up to the right. A wild series of pulls on cracks and pockets leads to an undercling and possible jug-rest. Move left, clip, then make a tough pull to establish yourself on the slab. From here, it's all technical slab technique to the jugs just before the anchor.

Location [Suggest Change]

On the South Claw of First Cave. North-facing wall. The twin cracks that lead up to a roof and then a slab above.

Protection [Suggest Change]

316ss lead bolts (2012)
Titanium anchor bolts (2018)

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