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Routes in (6) First Cave

3 Days, 30 Meters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Agar Jelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Breezy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calypso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cape to the Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clean Face S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Commissary Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deceiving Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desert, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Heaven's Falling T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hornet's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Missionary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muddy Undercling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorry Valentine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teratism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Visage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Walkway S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Westbound Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wonderland Fairy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Kang, Ming-Che, '01
Page Views: 169 total · 3/month
Shared By: greg k on Mar 11, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

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Access Issue: Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

Wonderland Fairy? maybe in the best of conditions. felt more like "Sand Demon" to me: my jeans resembled khakis by the time i topped out.
that written, a really fun climb that would be that much more enjoyable in dry conditions. i was a little worried about the rock quality but nothing larger than a sprinkle wafted down...

with a fair share of extendable draws. (glue-in bolts mar the length of the route ?!?) glue-in anchors are staggered...

Location

left side of west wall. WF starts below large flake about 1/4 of the way up the face.

Protection

standard rack
Titanium anchor (2018)

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
The glue-in bolts are staggering... Mar 12, 2014
BBarryAK
  5.10b PG13
BBarryAK  
  5.10b PG13
Lots of loose choss and blocks ready to fall here. Proceed with caution Jun 11, 2017
Has titanium anchors now. Really fun route, bit sandy and dusty of course. The only part with really bad rock quality is before the first bolt May 16, 2018

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