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Routes in (6) First Cave

3 Days, 30 Meters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Agar Jelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Breezy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calypso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cape to the Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Clean Face S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Commissary Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Deceiving Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Desert, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dragon Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Grass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Heaven's Falling T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hornet's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Missionary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Muddy Undercling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Noodle Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sorry Valentine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Teratism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Walkway S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Westbound Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wonderland Fairy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 118 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jin-Lung You
Page Views: 167 total, 4/month
Shared By: Jim Althans on May 26, 2014
Admins: Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details

Description

P1 - 5.10a
Start out left with some dangerously loose blocks for the first few bolts. The route heads back to the right through a small dihedral - more looseness - and up to a small grassy belay ledge with 2 bolt anchor (2 new titanium bolts).

P2 - 5.10b
Follow the face directly up and get to a slabby face with small crimps. Stay left on the big dihedral for an easier option and then traverse back right along a decent crack. For the crux, clip the bolt just over big roof and step out into the abyss to the right for OK crimps and a stretched right foot. Enjoy an easy slab to comfortable ledge with two new titanium anchors.

Rappel down and STAY LEFT to make sure you reach the first belay station. Position your rope so it doesn’t get caught on the little tree below the bolts when you pull it through. If you swing out too far right and can’t reach the first belay station, a 60 meter rope will get you within 2 meters of the ground (not advised).

Location

Walk up towards the first cave and then follow the trail to the left, going around the back of the huge pile of soil. The route starts at the uppermost point of this pile, at the south end of the cave. Belayer can clip into low bolt.

Protection

Titanium bolts (2016)

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
Rebolted in 2016 with titanium U-bolts Sep 23, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
 
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
 
The rock on the first 30 feet of the first pitch is a death trap. The bolting on the entire route was obviously done on rappel by someone with no eye for a line or for safety in general. The bolts are likely dangerous beyond any semblance of reliability. It cannot be safely protected with trad gear.

That said, the route does take you into a unique position above the First Cave. However, it should never be rebolted, and I don't recommend anybody climb it... unless you like that kind of adventure. Jan 24, 2015