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Routes in (6) First Cave
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3 Days, 30 Meters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Agar Jelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R |
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Breezy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Calypso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cape to the Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Clean Face S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Commissary Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Deceiving Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Desert, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dragon Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Grass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Heaven's Falling T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Hornet's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Missionary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Muddy Undercling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Noodle Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sorry Valentine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Teratism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Visage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Walkway S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Westbound Road T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wonderland Fairy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 118 ft, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jin-Lung You |
| Page Views: | 277 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Althans on May 26, 2014 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball |
Your Star Rating:
Description
P1 - 5.10a
Start out left with some dangerously loose blocks for the first few bolts. The route heads back to the right through a small dihedral - more looseness - and up to a small grassy belay ledge with 2 bolt anchor (2 new titanium bolts).
P2 - 5.10b
Follow the face directly up and get to a slabby face with small crimps. Stay left on the big dihedral for an easier option and then traverse back right along a decent crack. For the crux, clip the bolt just over big roof and step out into the abyss to the right for OK crimps and a stretched right foot. Enjoy an easy slab to comfortable ledge with two new titanium anchors.
Rappel down and STAY LEFT to make sure you reach the first belay station. Position your rope so it doesnt get caught on the little tree below the bolts when you pull it through. If you swing out too far right and cant reach the first belay station, a 60 meter rope will get you within 2 meters of the ground (not advised).
Start out left with some dangerously loose blocks for the first few bolts. The route heads back to the right through a small dihedral - more looseness - and up to a small grassy belay ledge with 2 bolt anchor (2 new titanium bolts).
P2 - 5.10b
Follow the face directly up and get to a slabby face with small crimps. Stay left on the big dihedral for an easier option and then traverse back right along a decent crack. For the crux, clip the bolt just over big roof and step out into the abyss to the right for OK crimps and a stretched right foot. Enjoy an easy slab to comfortable ledge with two new titanium anchors.
Rappel down and STAY LEFT to make sure you reach the first belay station. Position your rope so it doesnt get caught on the little tree below the bolts when you pull it through. If you swing out too far right and cant reach the first belay station, a 60 meter rope will get you within 2 meters of the ground (not advised).
Portland, OR
That said, the route does take you into a unique position above the First Cave. However, it should never be rebolted, and I don't recommend anybody climb it... unless you like that kind of adventure. Jan 24, 2015
Portland, OR
The first part of the first pitch has quite many loose rocks but its densely bolted (9 titanium bolts not including the anchor); you need a few alpine quickdraws or slings to avoid rope drag. The rock on the second pitch is of much better quality.
Personally I found the 2nd pitch easier, both easier than graded in the guidebook - I'd rate them 5.9.
You can continue climbing another pitch (titanium bolts), I dont know the name nor grade but it felt more difficult than the first two pitches. Dec 24, 2017