Avg: 1 from 2 votes
Routes in (6) First Cave
|3 Days, 30 Meters S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Agar Jelly S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R|
|Breezy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Calypso T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Cape to the Sky S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Clean Face S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Commissary Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Crow, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Deceiving Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Desert, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Dragon Arete S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Grass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Heart Shaped Rice Cake S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Heaven's Falling T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Hornet's Nest T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Missionary T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Muddy Undercling T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Noodle Line T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Sorry Valentine S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Teratism T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Walkway S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Westbound Road T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Wonderland Fairy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|Page Views:||44 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Nate Ball on Feb 18, 2013|
Bolt Failures - Donations Help Details
Accelerated corrosion that targets stainless steel bolts (SCC) has caused multiple failures, including both anchor bolts on a route that a climber was being lowered off of. Please read the BOLTS note on the main page. You can also help the cause by visiting the Bivy during your stay and giving QX some reds, whites, or if youre feeling generous, some BLUES!
DescriptionA kind of theme amongst moderate trad climbs at Long Dong: hard pull with marginal gear placements over a terrible landing to a long, easy runout. You can get some gear to protect a fall early, but if you don't get a second piece before you pull into the chimney, well...
The crux is in the first 15 feet.
Continue up 4th-5th class in chimney to a scrappy dihedral. Before the crack turns into a muddy gully, step left to a big hold (long reach here) and pull flakes to the anchor. There is no gear for the traverse.