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Elevation: 108 ft 33 m
GPS: 25.1091, 121.9222
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Nate Ball on Aug 23, 2012
Admins: Nate Ball

Description Suggest change

As you walk south around the long arm of the Grand Auditorium, known as Dragon Ridge, you will see a huge arch over a shallow cave set far back in the hillside. This is the First Cave. There are a good number of moderate gear and sport routes on the south-facing wall known as Lower Dragon Ridge, including the superb Commissary Crack. The north-facing wall, also called the South Claw, offers a number of intermediate trad classics as well. The Dragon Cave's fiercest and most-overhanging bolted problems are in the cave itself. Unfortunately this area suffers from damp, sandy, loose rock and particularly severe corrosion conditions.

Getting There Suggest change

Between the Grand Auditorium and the Second Cave.

Rain & Shade

Suggest change
Routes inside the cave stay dry in the rain. They tend to be dank after several days of rain though. All other walls dry quickly.

The cave interior and South Claw are shaded by 10am. All other routes are in the sun until late afternoon.

32 Total Climbs

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Location: (6) First Cave Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at First Cave

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Commissary Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Grass
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
 8
Agar Jelly
Sport 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Sorry Valentine
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
Wonderland Fairy
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Deceiving Arete
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Commissary Crack
 11
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Grass
 5
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Agar Jelly
 8
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R Sport 2 pitches
Sorry Valentine
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Wonderland Fairy
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Deceiving Arete
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in First Cave »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

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