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Routes in The Main Amphitheater

Accidental Tourist, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Alligator Sex Farm T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Black and Tan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black in the Day T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Broken Chain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Could Be Worse T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Counter Curse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dark Arts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dark and Stormy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Darkest Hour T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Death and Taxes T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
False Prophet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fierce Invalids T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fierce Invalids Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foggy Notion T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gemini Dragonfire T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lakshmi Singh T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Logic Bomb T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lord Humongous T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plasma Center S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pressure Drop T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pyrokinesis T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rough Around the Edges T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Speaking In Tongues T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sphere of Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There Will Be Blood T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Walking Far From Home T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, Sport, 110 ft
FA: Joel Unema, 2014
Page Views: 1,426 total, 32/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Mar 17, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Alligator Sex Farm is a mixed addition to the amphitheater. Start on alligator skin rock down low, climbing up fun cracks to some moderate ledgey territory about 40 feet up. From here continue up through technical vertical climbing protected by a few cams and nuts. Reach a stance at the base of the steep white spine, clip the first bolt, and launch up into wild stemming and feature climbing. Find your way through the roof, placing small gear from strenuous stances while making long moves between unique basalt holds. Once established above the roof, climb the poddy crack and traverse left across the pocketed face to clip the anchors.

Or you could just go to Florida and pony up the admission fee for an ASF.

Location

Begin between Broken Chain and Could be worse, climbing black Alligator rock. Continue straight up to the bolted white spine. Finish by clipping the two-bolt anchor hanging from the roof to the right of the Logic Bomb anchor.

Protection

Gear to bolts, then back to gear.
Recommended gear list: 1 set small-medium nuts, single set of cams from BD 00 to #2 Camalot with an extra BD 0 or equivalent.

Photos

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