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Routes in 2. The Main Amphitheater- Fall Wall
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Accidental Tourist, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Alligator Sex Farm T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Black and Tan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black in the Day T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Broken Chain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Could be Worse T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Counter Curse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dark and Stormy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dark Arts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Darkest Hour T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Death and Taxes T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fade to Black T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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False Prophet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fierce Invalids T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fierce Invalids Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Foggy Notion T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gemini Dragonfire T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Lakshmi Singh T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Last Laugh T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Logic Bomb T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Lord Humongous T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Plasma Center T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pressure Drop T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Pyrokinesis T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rough around the Edges T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Speaking in Tongues T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sphere of Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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There will be Blood T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Walking Far From Home T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
| Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m) |
| FA: | JJ Schlick 2008 |
| Page Views: | 3,557 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Jun 13, 2009 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
If you like to dabble in the occult and supernatural affairs, or are simply drawn to the mysterious, then Dark Arts is sure to conjure a rewarding experience with otherworldly positioning in the center of the dry black falls. If there is an energetic focal point at the Waterfall, the heart of the falls is it. This line is perhaps the most intriguing and enjoyable straight 5.11 in the Main Amphitheater.
Start off the deck in the same staging area as for Counter Curse, Darkest Hour, and Speaking in Tongues. Work your way up fairly solid, moderate terrain with fun, thoughtful climbing as you follow a left facing dihedral that turns into a wide stem box. You’ll pass a lone Petzl long life stainless steel bolt along the way.
At the conspicuous tan block at mid height, the climbing becomes more haunting and daunting. It will demand the best techniques you have to crank through the darkness, though the gear is great and straightforward. Hard stemming for shorter frames will lead to some fantastic face holds on the left. Continue stemming for your life until you reach the roof. Here, you can place #.75 or a #1, though the better beta is to just place the key #2 yellow Metolious to the right in the final little split lip of the roof. Move right on big footholds and a key slot for the hands below the roof. There is a good undercling and slopey foot hold to make the long move over the roof to the large jug rail above. A couple more moves could have you clipping the chains or flying through the air, screaming like a demon.
Protection
Double set from #00 to #1. Triples #00- .4 on the onsight might prove advantageous. Small and medium wires are helpful. 2 bolt anchor with steel Draco biners immediately below the second set of roofs that have whites splotches the underside.
A short, 10’ extension was added in the late 2010’s by Ben and David. It reportedly doesn’t add anything to the grade but maybe a little pump. I originally avoided this because of a large menacing block. They seemed to think the block was ok. Your call.
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