Type: Trad, 95 ft (29 m)
FA: JJ Schlick 2008
Page Views: 3,557 total · 20/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 13, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

If you like to dabble in the occult and supernatural affairs, or are simply drawn to the mysterious, then Dark Arts is sure to conjure a rewarding experience with otherworldly positioning in the center of the dry black falls. If there is an energetic focal point at the Waterfall, the heart of the falls is it. This line is perhaps the most intriguing and enjoyable straight 5.11 in the Main Amphitheater. 

Start off the deck in the same staging area as for Counter Curse, Darkest Hour, and Speaking in Tongues. Work your way up fairly solid, moderate terrain with fun, thoughtful climbing as you follow a left facing dihedral that turns into a wide stem box. You’ll pass a lone Petzl long life stainless steel bolt along the way.

At the conspicuous tan block at mid height, the climbing becomes more haunting and daunting. It will demand the best techniques you have to crank through the darkness, though the gear is great and straightforward. Hard stemming for shorter frames will lead to some fantastic face holds on the left. Continue stemming for your life until you reach the roof. Here, you can place #.75 or a #1, though the better beta is to just place the key #2 yellow Metolious to the right in the final little split lip of the roof. Move right on big footholds and a key slot for the hands below the roof. There is a good undercling and slopey foot hold to make the long move over the roof to the large jug rail above. A couple more moves could have you clipping the chains or flying through the air, screaming like a demon.

Protection Suggest change

Double set from #00 to #1. Triples #00- .4 on the onsight might prove advantageous. Small and medium wires are helpful. 2 bolt anchor with steel Draco biners immediately below the second set of roofs that have whites splotches the underside.

A short, 10’ extension was added in the late 2010’s by Ben and David. It reportedly doesn’t add anything to the grade but maybe a little pump. I originally avoided this because of a large menacing block. They seemed to think the block was ok. Your call.