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Routes in The Main Amphitheater

Accidental Tourist, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Alligator Sex Farm T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Black and Tan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black in the Day T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Broken Chain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Could Be Worse T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Counter Curse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dark Arts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dark and Stormy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Darkest Hour T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Death and Taxes T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
False Prophet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fierce Invalids T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fierce Invalids Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foggy Notion T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gemini Dragonfire T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lakshmi Singh T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Logic Bomb T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lord Humongous T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plasma Center S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pressure Drop T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pyrokinesis T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rough Around the Edges T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Speaking In Tongues T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sphere of Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There Will Be Blood T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Walking Far From Home T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 95 ft
FA: JJ Schlick 2008
Page Views: 1,857 total, 18/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 13, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Dark Arts is an endearing mid range .11 that will certainly keep your attention. Start out climbing up large ledges to a small pillar on the left and this is the start of the crack. Work up thin crack with large face holds. Pass a lone bolt, and continue working up large chunky, though mostly solid rock. Once you reach the large tan block, mantle up and the hard climbing begins. Do a hard stem move to access holds up and left of finger crack. Keep working up the near perfect stembox past cool face holds and good tips crack to the roof. At the roof, move right, and place a #2 Yellow TCU. Move straight up to large jug rail, and continue pulling jugs to a final left hand fingerlock, and the anchors below small roof with white splotches on the underside.

Classic climbing that gets better the more you get to know it, and it's the most moderate route in the black section of the cliff.

Protection

Double set to 1", single set to 2".
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Toast with Butter is correct. This is a tall boy special and was originally rated 5.10+, much to the guffaw of my shorter cronies. Aug 18, 2013
Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
  5.11a
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
  5.11a
i was able to use my reach (6'3 ape) to make the roof moves feel pretty easy Apr 6, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Right on Tim. I love this pitch, and I am surprised it doesn't see more action. Jun 11, 2012
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.11
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.11
Just a really great climb! Starts out quite mellow (5.8ish), but very fun(and a good warm-up). The tan block mid-route is where the best stuff really starts and it ramps in difficulty from there. Fun, sustained moves to get set up under the roof and it all protects beautifully. A tricky sequence to get over the roof and to the jug rail, but fortunately the holds after the roof are all excellent(although don't expect the fight to be over until you actually clip the chains!). Jun 11, 2012