Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2009
Page Views: 4,443 total · 30/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Apr 13, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Description

Both technical and physical stemming! Shares start with There will be Blood. Start at the head-height roof on the far left side of the Main Amphitheater in a large, right-facing corner. Follow cracks up past jams and edges to the roof. From there move out right and get established in the stem box. Expect a lot of sustained stemming as the angle gets steeper, until the apex of the angle coincides with the crux of the route. Full body pump! All bolts after roof at mid height and it’s well protected as I was drilling on lead.

False Prophet has become an Amphitheater classic and is an overall excellent stemming route. This line was my way up to get anchors on what would become There Will Be Blood. What I thought might be fairly moderate terrain in the upper half turned out to be steeper than imagined and devoid of any meaningful gear placements. So what I thought would be 5.10 before I started, turned out to be a full grade harder, though the mission was still highly successful.

Don’t make the mistake of belaying from underneath the roof if you are expecting to catch a few falls.

Location

The far left side of the Amphitheater, forty feet right or so of the Sword. Starts at very low- head height roof.

Protection

Single set of cams to 1", wires, 9 bolts.

Photos