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Routes in The Main Amphitheater- Fall Wall
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Accidental Tourist, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Alligator Sex Farm T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Black and Tan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black in the Day T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Broken Chain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Could be Worse T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Counter Curse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dark and Stormy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dark Arts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Darkest Hour T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Death and Taxes T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fade to Black T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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False Prophet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fierce Invalids T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fierce Invalids Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Foggy Notion T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gemini Dragonfire T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Lakshmi Singh T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Last Laugh T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Logic Bomb T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Lord Humongous T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Plasma Center T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pressure Drop T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Pyrokinesis T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rough around the Edges T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Speaking in Tongues T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sphere of Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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There will be Blood T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Walking Far From Home T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 34.93186, -111.73298 |
| FA: | JJ Schlick, James Q Martin 2008 |
| Page Views: | 4,317 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Jun 14, 2009 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
You may need to start the internal fires for this one... Pyrokinesis is a step up from Fade To Black and also a very different style. Begin as for that route, but just before the dihedral gets steep move right to a stance in a slot capped by a small, triangular roof. Clip a fixed wire and a bolt and perform a very thin, cryptic, bouldery crux. Above here are good holds and a long stretch to a second bolt (protectable with a blue TCU). Cop a rest if you can, and then launch into the bouldery high crux. Sustained edges take you to the top.
Protection
Thin pro (to 1/2"), a fixed wire and then four bolts up high. A green Alien or blue TCU in a horizontal - the first piece - helps prevent wires from zippering up higher. After this is a key #5 BD stopper that is placed blindly to protect the first weird move - currently this wire is fixed. An optional blue TCU protects a runout between the first and second bolts. Bring a handful of long runners as you’ll need to be smart with your rope flow.
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