Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: JJ Schlick, James Q Martin 2008
Page Views: 3,823 total · 23/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman

You & This Route

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You may need to start the internal fires for this one... Pyrokinesis is a step up from Fade To Black and also a very different style. Begin as for that route, but just before the dihedral gets steep move right to a stance in a slot capped by a small, triangular roof. Clip a fixed wire and a bolt and perform a very thin, cryptic, bouldery crux. Above here are good holds and a long stretch to a second bolt (protectable with a blue TCU). Cop a rest if you can, and then launch into the bouldery high crux. Sustained edges take you to the top.


Thin pro (to 1/2"), a fixed wire and then four bolts up high. A green Alien or blue TCU in a horizontal - the first piece - helps prevent wires from zippering up higher. After this is a key #5 BD stopper that is placed blindly to protect the first weird move - currently this wire is fixed. An optional blue TCU protects a runout between the first and second bolts. Bring a handful of long runners as you’ll need to be smart with your rope flow.