All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Oak Creek Canyon > The Waterfall* > The Main Amphitheater
Avg: 3.4 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, 100 ft|
|FA:||JJ Schlick, James Q Martin 2008|
|Page Views:||2,520 total · 22/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Jun 14, 2009|
|Admins:||Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland|
You may need to start the internal fires for this one... Pyrokinesis is a step up from Fade To Black and also a very different style. Begin as for that route, but just before the dihedral gets steep move right to a stance in a slot capped by a small, triangular roof. Clip a fixed wire and a bolt and perform a very thin, cryptic, bouldery crux. Above here are good holds and a long stretch to a second bolt (protectable with a blue TCU). Cop a rest if you can, and then launch into the bouldery high crux. Sustained edges take you to the top.
Thin pro (to 1/2"), a fixed wire and then four bolts up high. A green Alien or blue TCU in a horizontal - the first piece - helps prevent wires from zippering up higher. After this is a key #5 BD stopper that is placed blindly to protect the first weird move - currently this wire is fixed. An optional blue TCU protects a runout between the first and second bolts.