Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Main Amphitheater

Accidental Tourist, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Alligator Sex Farm T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Black and Tan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black in the Day T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Broken Chain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Could be Worse T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Counter Curse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dark Arts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dark and Stormy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Darkest Hour T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Death and Taxes T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fade to Black T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
False Prophet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fierce Invalids T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fierce Invalids Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foggy Notion T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gemini Dragonfire T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
Lakshmi Singh T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Logic Bomb T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lord Humongous T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plasma Center S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pressure Drop T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pyrokinesis T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rough Around the Edges T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Speaking in Tongues T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sphere of Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There will be Blood T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Walking Far From Home T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, James Q Martin 2008
Page Views: 2,520 total · 22/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


9 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

You may need to start the internal fires for this one... Pyrokinesis is a step up from Fade To Black and also a very different style. Begin as for that route, but just before the dihedral gets steep move right to a stance in a slot capped by a small, triangular roof. Clip a fixed wire and a bolt and perform a very thin, cryptic, bouldery crux. Above here are good holds and a long stretch to a second bolt (protectable with a blue TCU). Cop a rest if you can, and then launch into the bouldery high crux. Sustained edges take you to the top.

Protection

Thin pro (to 1/2"), a fixed wire and then four bolts up high. A green Alien or blue TCU in a horizontal - the first piece - helps prevent wires from zippering up higher. After this is a key #5 BD stopper that is placed blindly to protect the first weird move - currently this wire is fixed. An optional blue TCU protects a runout between the first and second bolts.

Photos

Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
  5.12c
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
  5.12c
Yet another amazing route at the Waterfall. Thanks again guys for all the work putting these up. Two cruxes on this one. Lower technical crux and a distinct high enduro crux. I've never been so happy to see an offwidth crack! Jul 6, 2009

More About Pyrokinesis

Printer-Friendly