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Routes in The Main Amphitheater

Accidental Tourist, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Alligator Sex Farm T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Black and Tan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black in the Day T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Broken Chain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Could Be Worse T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Counter Curse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dark Arts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dark and Stormy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Darkest Hour T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Death and Taxes T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
False Prophet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fierce Invalids T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fierce Invalids Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foggy Notion T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gemini Dragonfire T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lakshmi Singh T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Logic Bomb T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lord Humongous T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plasma Center S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pressure Drop T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pyrokinesis T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rough Around the Edges T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Speaking In Tongues T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sphere of Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There Will Be Blood T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Walking Far From Home T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Darren Singer and Jeff Huebner
Page Views: 6,564 total, 48/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Black and Tan has become a steadfast classic in the line up of Waterfall 5.10s, if not THEE classic. This all natural gear pitch features fingers through hands jamming, excellent stemming stances, and of course, the two tiered roof at the top which delivers the crux of the route.

Hard to miss on the climbers right side of the Main Amphitheater. A #3 and a #.75 protect the blocky entrance into the stem box. The excellent gear, steepness, and overall vibe of the pitch make it a great first route to do at the Waterfall.

Protection

(2) each #.3 through #.5, (3) each #.75 and #1, a #2 is useful, though kind of tight at the first roof, and a #3 is good for a first piece at the start. A few medium wires are also nice to have.

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
I talked with Darren Singer a number of years back about retro cleaning some of the original lines, and he was all for it. Though they did take out the obvious stuff, cleaning was a different deal in 1992. There are a bunch of routes on the Left Wall that could use a good once over, and the overall quality would go up tremendously. There's always going to be some choss here and there, but I don't think people need to be shy about removing any direct hazard from any route here. The freeze/thaw effect here can loosen rock over the course of just a couple seasons once we start climbing on it.... Nov 1, 2013
I guess when people are brought up on well buffed routes and plastic they just assume things will be solid. They may or may not be solid. When I started climbing just after the ice age, I learned that if it didn't look solid treat it like it could break or fall off. Thus Jimbo and I do everything we can to clean the stuff we think will kill or maim people cleaned off. It would suck to have someone get hurt by something we thought was solid. We have also found that many things that will not come off with a hammer will pretty easily come off with a crowbar. Thanks for the cleanup JJ. Oct 16, 2013
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
 
thanks guys! this was the route's only minor blemish, and now is clean as a whistle! Oct 15, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
So after 15 years of climbing past the stack of blocks at 1/3 height on Black and Tan, we finally decided to take a closer look. Wade pulled out every block but one by hand, and he did so with minimal effort. These blocks were slathered with chalk and I've seen folks reefing on them for years. It should go without saying at a crag like the Waterfall, but be careful what you pull on, because it could be the last decision you make. Sep 29, 2013
JMo
Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
JMo   Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
This climb is incredibly good. It also protects very well. Nothing PG about this one. Thrilling lead though. Oct 7, 2012
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.10b
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.10b
One of my favorite 10's anywhere, and one I repeat every chance I get. Unfortunately, I fixed a red C4 under the first roof on Sunday. Would love to get it back if possible. A six pack of your choice and tons of good karma awaits..! May 28, 2012
jeffrey c gibson
pheonix az
  5.10c
jeffrey c gibson   pheonix az
  5.10c
This was my first 10 trad on site, and an amazing route! Mar 31, 2012
Pat Mac
Tempe
  5.10- PG13
Pat Mac   Tempe
  5.10- PG13
Wow! this was my first ever trad lead. I tr'ed it before I tried it on lead. It felt easy but wow amazing stone!!!!!! Can't wait to climb the harder stuff. Thanks JJ for the hard work at this crag. Sep 6, 2011
roman d
Pasadena, CA
  5.10
roman d   Pasadena, CA
  5.10
Incredible pitch! Nov 8, 2010
Darren Singer
Portland, OR
 
Darren Singer   Portland, OR
 
See Lord Humongous re: mysterious bolt holes. Sorry for the low budget bolt anchors guys - grad student salaries didn't afford much for hardware at the time. May 15, 2010
Mike
Phoenix
  5.10
Mike   Phoenix
  5.10
A great route with fun moves. The roofs are much easier than they appear from the ground. The crux for me was a short thin crack section low in the stem-box. Jul 9, 2009
Greg DeMatteo
W. Lebanon, NH
  5.10
Greg DeMatteo   W. Lebanon, NH
  5.10
One of the best pitches I've climbed in years. Sep 2, 2008
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Naw, I don't mind putting in the extra effort to make sure that our NAZ classics are properly taken care of. Jul 24, 2008
Jon Ruth
Flagstaff, AZ
Jon Ruth   Flagstaff, AZ
Awesome. Do we owe you a cold one Jeremy? Jun 22, 2008
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Anchors replaced 6-1-08. 1/2 inch bolts, hangers, quick links, and biners for a speedy return to the ground, and on to the next route. Jun 1, 2008