Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Darren Singer, Jeff Huebner 1994
Page Views: 9,374 total · 55/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Aug 12, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Black and Tan has become a steadfast classic in the line up of Waterfall 5.10’s, if not THEE classic. This all natural gear pitch features fingers through hands jamming, excellent stemming stances, and of course, the two tiered roof at the top. The crux of the route may be in the middle stemming portion or at the roofs, depending on your height.

Hard to miss on the climbers right side of the Main Amphitheater, right of the black falls. A #3 and a #.75 protect the blocky entrance into the stem box. The great rock quality, excellent gear, steepness, and overall vibe of the pitch make it a great first route to do at the Waterfall.

Protection

(2) each #.3 through #.5, (3) each #.75 and #1, a #2 is useful, though kind of tight at the first roof, and a #3 is good for a first piece at the start. A few medium wires are also nice to have. 2 bolt anchor with steel Draco biners.

Photos