Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Joel Unema, JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest
Page Views: 778 total · 11/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Jan 21, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Starts to the right of False Prophet. The line is characterized by a large low roof with an "S" shaped crack that starts off the right side of this roof. This line follows the right side of the stembox below the roof, continues out the right side of the roof and finishes on the thin S-crack above. The section 25' below the roof to the roof was cleaned by the equipping party but still has a few flakes and blocks that may be loose, so climb with care. The climbing in this section beneath the roof however is quite moderate and protects well. After the roof, the rock quality is immaculate and the intensity jumps up a few levels.

Protection

This route protects well with a double set of cams from BD 000 to fingers, a set of nuts from micro to big finger size, and a single set of cams from 0.5 Camalot to #3 Camalot. The anchor is 2 bolts with chains and biners.

Location

To the right of False Prophet. The next set of anchors right of False Prophet's mark the finish of Broken Chain!

Photos

Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
Thanks to JJ and Wade for putting in the work to make this great climb possible! Apr 1, 2013
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Right on Joel, nice send. And thanks for taking care of that for us. Apr 3, 2013