Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Kyle Edmonson, JJ Schlick
Page Views: 2,703 total · 17/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 5, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

In some ways this is one of the most aesthetic lines in the Amphitheater when viewed from below. There’s just something about it. I equipped this line and spent a bit of time trying to redpoint it, but eventually the math wasn’t adding up and life being life, got in the way of itself. Despite the fantastic climbing and stellar positioning, I regretfully stepped aside. My old tatty draws swayed in the breeze for far too long. Kyle was eventually kind enough to clean the fixed draws and send the route. When asked for a name, his suggestion seemed fitting to all involved for various reasons. For what it’s worth, I thought this was a little harder than the given grade.

Start as for Rough Around the Edges, but where that route breaks off right, continue straight up. There is a #1 BD in a pod by the break before the steep climbing and the bolts begin. The upper portion of the route is both burly and sequential, while offering several hard boulder problems sectioned by adequate shakes. Follow bolts through the stunning obtuse dihedral. If you can.

One can climb left from the Rough Around the Edges anchor to the Pressure Drop anchor via a two bolt traverse if you want to hang draws, retrieve them, or set a TR.

Location Suggest change

Middle of the Main Amphitheater. Right of Death and Taxes. Shares start with Rough around the Edges.

Protection Suggest change

Single set of TCUs, cams to 2", wires, then somewhat spacey bolts on the 2nd half.

Photos

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