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Routes in 2. The Main Amphitheater- Fall Wall
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Accidental Tourist, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Alligator Sex Farm T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Black and Tan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Black in the Day T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Broken Chain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Could be Worse T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Counter Curse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dark and Stormy T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Dark Arts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Darkest Hour T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Death and Taxes T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fade to Black T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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False Prophet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Fierce Invalids T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Fierce Invalids Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Foggy Notion T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gemini Dragonfire T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
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Lakshmi Singh T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Last Laugh T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Logic Bomb T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Lord Humongous T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Plasma Center T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pressure Drop T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Pyrokinesis T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rough around the Edges T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Speaking in Tongues T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Sphere of Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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There will be Blood T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Walking Far From Home T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2009 |
| Page Views: | 6,640 total · 38/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Jun 28, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
Another of my 50/50 routes where half is trad and the other half sport. There will be Blood stands out as an illogically steep route for columnar basalt, with the upper half delivering everything from boulder problem cruxes to jug haul surfing on very exposed terrain.
Start at the head height roof and enjoy good moderate climbing with decent gear along a large right facing dihedral. Clip a bolt with a long runner at 50' just below the roof, then head left on jugs to a plank rest. It's bolts to the top from there.
Eye the line well and be prepared for somewhat strange cranking through the initial little roofs. From there, enjoy interesting slightly off balance moves through the vertical section. It should be painfully obvious when you have to turn it on again, if you had the luxury of turning it down at all. Long moves lead you past amazing holds and a variety of feet. Keeps after you until you clip the anchors, though there is plenty of air around.
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