Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2009
Page Views: 5,215 total · 39/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 28, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Oak Creek Canyon Closures- COVID 19 Details

Description

Another of my 50/50 routes where half is trad and the other half sport. There will be Blood stands out as an illogically steep route for columnar basalt, with the upper half delivering everything from boulder problem cruxes to jug haul surfing on very exposed terrain.

Start at head height roof and then enjoy good moderate climbing with decent gear along a large right facing dihedral. Clip a bolt with a long runner at 50' just below the roof, then head left via jugs to a plank rest. It's bolts to the top from there.

Eye the line well and be prepared for some serious cranking through the initial little roofs. From there, enjoy interesting slightly off balance moves through the vertical section. It should be painfully obvious when you have to turn it on again, if you had the luxury of turning it down at all. Long moves lead you past amazing holds and a variety of feet. Keeps after you until you clip the anchors, though there is plenty of air around.

Location

Left side of Amphitheater, Starts at head height roof.

Protection

Finger TCUs, small wires, Bolts.

Photos