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Routes in The Main Amphitheater

Accidental Tourist, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Alligator Sex Farm T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Black and Tan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black in the Day T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Broken Chain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Could Be Worse T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Counter Curse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dark Arts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dark and Stormy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Darkest Hour T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Death and Taxes T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
False Prophet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fierce Invalids T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fierce Invalids Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foggy Notion T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gemini Dragonfire T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
Lakshmi Singh T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Logic Bomb T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lord Humongous T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plasma Center S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pressure Drop T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pyrokinesis T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rough Around the Edges T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Speaking In Tongues T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sphere of Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There Will Be Blood T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Walking Far From Home T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2009
Page Views: 4,210 total, 41/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 28, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

There Will Be Blood stands out as another illogically steep route for columnar basalt, with the upper half delivering everything from boulder problem cruxes to jug haul surfing on very exposed terrain.

Start at head height roof, and then enjoy good moderate climbing with decent gear along a large right facing dihedral. Clip a bolt with a long runner at 50' just below the roof, then head left via jugs to a plank rest. It's bolts to the top from there.

Eye the line well, and be prepared for some serious cranking right off the bat through the initial roofs. From there, enjoy interesting slightly off balance moves through the vertical section. It should be painfully obvious when you have to turn it on again, if you had the luxury of turning it down at all. Long moves lead you past amazing holds, and a variety of feet. Keeps after you until you clip the anchors, though there is plenty of air around.

Location

Left side of Amphitheater, Starts at head height roof.

Protection

Finger TCUs, small wires, Bolts.
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Nice effort, JJ. Jun 27, 2015
Casey Niggemyer
Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.12c
Casey Niggemyer   Flagstaff, Arizona
  5.12c
I drink your milkshake! Mar 30, 2015
Eric D
Gnarnia
Eric D   Gnarnia
This doesn't look like much from the ground but is an excellent pitch. Great finishing sequence. Jan 21, 2012
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12
Ryan: I would have to say yes, it is. Sep 25, 2011
RyanJames
  5.12d
RyanJames  
  5.12d
Is this climb as amazing and classic as it looks? Aug 31, 2011
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
A little more than a year later I still get tingles up my spine when I think of this line.... For me it seemed more endurance than anything, and that was what took so long. I probably lobbed off the top 12 times from spitting distance of the anchors simply because of the pump. Luckily for my creaky knees, they were always big, clean falls. Oct 28, 2010
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
  5.12c
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
  5.12c
I concur. Great job JJ putting up and sending a route which compares in quality to the best pitches of that grade in Northern AZ (Joker, Mission to Mars). It's my privilege to have made the second ascent of this classic. Jun 28, 2009
Josh Janes

  5.12b
Josh Janes    
  5.12b
Congratulations JJ! I wanted to be the first to say so; it was awesome hearing your victory shouts this afternoon. What a line! Jun 28, 2009