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Routes in The Main Amphitheater

Accidental Tourist, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Alligator Sex Farm T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Black and Tan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black in the Day T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Broken Chain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Could Be Worse T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Counter Curse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dark Arts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dark and Stormy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Darkest Hour T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Death and Taxes T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
False Prophet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fierce Invalids T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fierce Invalids Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foggy Notion T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gemini Dragonfire T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
Lakshmi Singh T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Logic Bomb T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lord Humongous T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plasma Center S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pressure Drop T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pyrokinesis T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rough Around the Edges T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Speaking In Tongues T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sphere of Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There Will Be Blood T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Walking Far From Home T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: JJ Schlick 2008
Page Views: 1,108 total, 11/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Counter Curse offers some really good climbing on bulletproof black rock that is bookended by two hard-to-decipher cruxes. Begin as for Dark Arts, but just before the bolt on that pitch traverse left along a horizontal to a roof/alcove. Clip a bolt here and step up into a V-slot. All I can say is good luck. Maybe try that SuperTopo Harding Slot beta...

Above this follow a vague corner with thin gear to some jugs about 20' below the anchors. A difficult move here leads up to some good edges and the chains. This is a brilliantly perplexing climb.

Protection

Thin pro (gear to 1/2"), wires, draws.

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
You gotta stay slightly right of the "V" slot, small crimps and a deadpoint to a huge hold. Oct 1, 2010
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
  5.12-
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
  5.12-
"Brilliantly perplexing" is a good description of this route. I found the low bulge to be the crux. There was another tough move up high as well. I would not argue with anyone who wanted to rate this route a 5.12. It certainly took a 5.12 effort for me to onsight it. Aug 6, 2009