Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Joel Unema, 2014
Page Views: 2,965 total · 50/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Feb 7, 2014
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

Gemini Dragonfire climbs through the heart of the waterfall. Moderate climbing leads to a boulder problem over a bulge. Above this bulge, slabby to vertical climbing leads up a left-slanting crack. A short step right gains the seam. Small and positive edges lead to the technical crux Engaging and pumpy climbing leads to a good stance below the roof, where the climb exits left on small crimps and pockets.

Location

Gemini Dragonfire is in the main amphitheater, right of Pyrokinesis and left of Black and Tan. The two-bolt anchor is shared with Dark and Stormy

Protection

Gear to a 2 bolt anchor.
Recommended gear list:
Doubles from 00 BD to #.5 Camalot
Single #.75-#2 Camalot
Set of small and medium nuts
Blue Ballnut (protects bottom bulge at 5.11+R)
3 Red Ballnuts
1 Yellow Ballnut

Photos

Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.13+
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.13+
Gemini Dragonfire would not have been possible without Carrie Albrecht. I am so grateful for her patience, belays, and encouragement.

On another topic, a grade is hard to assign on a climb like this. The crux is a short vertical boulder problem, preceded by a good rest. I welcome other opinions on the grade, as I feel the boulder problem was difficult, sequential, and height-dependant. Feb 7, 2014
Awesome Joel!!!! Feb 8, 2014
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Way to go, Joel. You rock! Jan 19, 2015