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Routes in The Main Amphitheater

Accidental Tourist, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Alligator Sex Farm T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Black and Tan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black in the Day T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Broken Chain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Could Be Worse T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Counter Curse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dark Arts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dark and Stormy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Darkest Hour T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Death and Taxes T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
False Prophet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fierce Invalids T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fierce Invalids Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foggy Notion T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gemini Dragonfire T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lakshmi Singh T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Logic Bomb T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lord Humongous T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plasma Center S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pressure Drop T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pyrokinesis T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rough Around the Edges T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Speaking In Tongues T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sphere of Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There Will Be Blood T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Walking Far From Home T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Joel Unema, 2014
Page Views: 2,738 total, 59/month
Shared By: Joel Unema on Feb 7, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Gemini Dragonfire climbs through the heart of the waterfall. Moderate climbing leads to a boulder problem over a bulge. Above this bulge, slabby to vertical climbing leads up a left-slanting crack. A short step right gains the seam. Small and positive edges lead to the technical crux Engaging and pumpy climbing leads to a good stance below the roof, where the climb exits left on small crimps and pockets.

Location

Gemini Dragonfire is in the main amphitheater, right of Pyrokinesis and left of Black and Tan. The two-bolt anchor is shared with Dark and Stormy

Protection

Gear to a 2 bolt anchor.
Recommended gear list:
Doubles from 00 BD to #.5 Camalot
Single #.75-#2 Camalot
Set of small and medium nuts
Blue Ballnut (protects bottom bulge at 5.11+R)
3 Red Ballnuts
1 Yellow Ballnut

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Way to go, Joel. You rock! Jan 19, 2015
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Awesome Joel!!!! Feb 8, 2014
Joel Unema
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Joel Unema   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Gemini Dragonfire would not have been possible without Carrie Albrecht. I am so grateful for her patience, belays, and encouragement.

On another topic, a grade is hard to assign on a climb like this. The crux is a short vertical boulder problem, preceded by a good rest. I welcome other opinions on the grade, as I feel the boulder problem was difficult, sequential, and height-dependant. Feb 7, 2014