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Routes in The Main Amphitheater

Accidental Tourist, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Alligator Sex Farm T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Black and Tan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black in the Day T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Broken Chain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Could Be Worse T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Counter Curse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dark Arts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dark and Stormy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Darkest Hour T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Death and Taxes T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
False Prophet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fierce Invalids T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fierce Invalids Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foggy Notion T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gemini Dragonfire T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a R
Lakshmi Singh T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Logic Bomb T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lord Humongous T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plasma Center S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Pressure Drop T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pyrokinesis T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rough Around the Edges T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Speaking In Tongues T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sphere of Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There Will Be Blood T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Walking Far From Home T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: JJ Schlick 2008
Page Views: 1,965 total, 19/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Jun 15, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

In the middle of the Main Amphitheater is an eye snagging, overhanging column which boldly sticks out from the rest of the wall. I remember staring at this line for a long time before investigating further. However, alongside the few certainties of life, I knew this pitch was going to be stellar just by scoping it, and the end result was nothing short of that for the grade.

Shares start with Could Be Worse. At the roof, move out right into very thin, scoop like dihedral. Stem up this thin gear section passing a .10+ mini crux with a hidden pocket, and a lone bolt. A good shake at the base of the overhanging column gives one time to regroup, and eye down the steepness above.

Continue up the overhanging right side of column placing great gear on the run, jamming, and jug hauling passing 3 bolts at the very top. Striking, delicate, and powerful. Maybe the best .11+ route in the Main Amphitheater.

Location

Mid to left side of amphitheater. Look for a distinct overhanging column at 2/3 height with lines on either side. Death and Taxes takes the right hand side of the this formation.

Protection

You can place many 00 and 0 TCUs. As many as 4 each wouldn't hurt. A double set of other finger sized pieces. Small, medium, and large wires.
Wylie
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Wylie   Flagstaff, AZ
 
I'll 2nd that doubles are fine, unless you want to sew up the easy slaby climbing down low. Dec 7, 2013
Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
  5.11+
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
  5.11+
Excellent route! I think a double set of cams to 0.5 Camelot and wires will suffice for gear (at least it did for me). This route is every bit as good as its next door neighbor, Could be Worse. It is more straightforward at the steep finish. There is some really cool jamming in the flare. Between the well-placed bolts and the gear, this route is very safe and not scary. My greatest concern was keeping my rope from falling into the poison oak at the base. I spent sometime pruning today. Aug 13, 2009