Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | JJ Schlick, James Q Martin 2008 |
Page Views: | 3,623 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Josh Janes on Jun 14, 2009 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Fade To Black is one of the steepest routes in the amphitheater! Begin just right of the terrace where Dark Arts starts and scramble up to a low ledge. Here, a blue TCU or green Alien in a horizontal doesn't do much for pro, but will keep the next few wire placements from zippering. Slot a key, blind #5 BD overhead (currently fixed) and work past a funky low move and then into low angled, sporty left facing dihedral. Move up into a cruxy thin crack dihedral passing a solution pocket on left. Rest at a block and then move out the steep dihedral past four bolts via jams and long moves between jugs to a final crux reach to a fingerlock. Bouldery, pumpy, and classic!
Protection
Thin pro. Small wires and small cams down to #000, and four bolts up high. A green Alien or blue TCU in a horizontal - the first piece - helps prevent wires from zippering up higher. After this is a key #5 BD stopper that is placed blindly to protect the first weird move - currently this wire is fixed.
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