Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: JJ Schlick, James Q Martin 2008
Page Views: 3,003 total · 21/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jun 14, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Description

Fade To Black is one of the steepest routes in the amphitheater! Begin just right of the terrace where Dark Arts starts and scramble up to a low ledge. Here, a blue TCU or green Alien in a horizontal doesn't do much for pro, but will keep the next few wire placements from zippering. Slot a key, blind #5 BD overhead (currently fixed) and work past a funky low move and then into low angled, sporty left facing dihedral. Move up into a cruxy thin crack dihedral passing a solution pocket on left. Rest at a block and then move out the steep dihedral past four bolts via jams and long moves between jugs to a final crux reach to a fingerlock. Bouldery, pumpy, and classic!

Protection

Thin pro. Small wires and small cams down to #000, and four bolts up high. A green Alien or blue TCU in a horizontal - the first piece - helps prevent wires from zippering up higher. After this is a key #5 BD stopper that is placed blindly to protect the first weird move - currently this wire is fixed.

Photos