Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2013
Page Views: 2,088 total · 15/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 26, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

Darkest Hour is the jet black, vertical to slightly overhanging seam in between Counter Curse on the left and Dark Arts on the right. I had left it alone for years fearing it might be too close to Dark Arts to make for truly independent climbing. I was wrong. After closer examination it turns out that the majority of the holds and sequences are on the left hand side of the seam, and once established on the line, the climbing is quite isolated and exposed. This is face climbing with gear and this pitch would be a good introduction for other techy “face” pitches at the Waterfall like Crescent Moon, Soldier of Fortune, No Utopia, and Full Steam Ahead. So named as the end was near. It does require some seasonal weeding like it’s neighbors, yet is quite stunning when all cleaned up and climbed.

Start by climbing the first 35' of Dark Arts passing an assortment of gear options and one bolt to a very conspicuous right facing concave scoop. Start moving left on big holds to access the seam. You will go a little ways before the first good gear pod (medium wire or #.4). Moving up don't miss the #1 Camalot pod at the large flat jug and make sure you have a #.75 Camalot for the last bomber piece of crux gear, with a green C3 just a little higher. A short, all or nothing run for the jugs at the anchor might make or break your day, though there is nothing but wide open air all around you. Perhaps a little punchy on the onsight, but a satisfying send if you can find your way through the darkness.

Location Suggest change

In between Counter Curse and Dark Arts. Shares first 35' of Dark Arts.

Protection Suggest change

A full single set from #.3 through #1 Camalot, and bulking up on the #.5- #1 range. Small/medium wires, couple runners.