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Routes in The Main Amphitheater

Accidental Tourist, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Alligator Sex Farm T,S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Black and Tan T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black in the Day T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Broken Chain T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Could Be Worse T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Counter Curse T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dark Arts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Dark and Stormy T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Darkest Hour T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Death and Taxes T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fade To Black T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
False Prophet T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fierce Invalids T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Fierce Invalids Extension T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Foggy Notion T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Gemini Dragonfire T 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Lakshmi Singh T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Logic Bomb T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lord Humongous T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Plasma Center S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pressure Drop T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pyrokinesis T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rough Around the Edges T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Speaking In Tongues T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sphere of Influence T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
There Will Be Blood T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Walking Far From Home T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2013
Page Views: 920 total, 17/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on May 26, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Darkest Hour is the jet black, vertical to slightly overhanging seam in between Counter Curse on the left and Dark Arts on the right. I had left it alone for years fearing It might be too close to Dark Arts to make for truly independent climbing. I was wrong... After closer examination it turns out that the majority of the holds and sequences are on the left hand side of the seam, and once established on the line the climbing is quite isolated and exposed. This is face climbing with gear, and this pitch would be a good primer for other techy face pitches at the Waterfall like No Utopia, Full Steam Ahead, and Lochs Of Dread.

Start by climbing the first 35' of Dark Arts passing an assortment of gear options and one bolt to a very conspicuous right facing concave scoop. Start moving left on big holds to access the seam. You will go a little ways before the first good gear pod (medium wire or #.4). Moving up don't miss the #1 Camalot pod at the large flat jug, and make sure you have a #.75 Camalot for the last, and crux piece off gear. A short, "all or nothing" run for the Thank God jugs at the anchor might make or break your day, though there is nothing but wide open air all around you...

Location

In between Counter Curse and Dark Arts. Shares first 35' of Dark Arts.

Protection

A full single set from #.3 through #1 Camalot, and bulking up on the #.5- #1 range. Small/medium wires, couple runners.

Photos

JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
That's good beta on the higher crux piece. Missed that one! Jun 17, 2013
Tim Heid
AZ
  5.11b
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.11b
I agree with Ryan, super fun climbing. Quite cruxy, separated with good rests to quell the pump. At the top it steepens and is a fantastic sequence of moves.

For the onsight I’d say maybe 2x purple-yellow master cams, and singles from .3-1 C4. I even placed a bomber red ball nut for kicks below the flat jug. A green C3 a few feet above the .75 slot helped mentally and caught a few good lobs I took when gunning for the chains. The gear is pretty sequencey, so JJ’s advice above on what to use and when is spot on. Jun 17, 2013
RyanJames
  5.11
RyanJames  
  5.11
Absolutely incredible finish! Never knew trad climbing would be like that! Jun 8, 2013