Avg: 2.9 from 13 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||JJ Schlick, Wade Forrest 2013|
|Page Views:||1,830 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||JJ Schlick on May 26, 2013|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman|
Darkest Hour is the jet black, vertical to slightly overhanging seam in between Counter Curse on the left and Dark Arts on the right. I had left it alone for years fearing It might be too close to Dark Arts to make for truly independent climbing. I was wrong... After closer examination it turns out that the majority of the holds and sequences are on the left hand side of the seam, and once established on the line the climbing is quite isolated and exposed. This is face climbing with gear, and this pitch would be a good primer for other techy “face” pitches at the Waterfall like No Utopia, Full Steam Ahead, and Locks Of Dread.
Start by climbing the first 35' of Dark Arts passing an assortment of gear options and one bolt to a very conspicuous right facing concave scoop. Start moving left on big holds to access the seam. You will go a little ways before the first good gear pod (medium wire or #.4). Moving up don't miss the #1 Camalot pod at the large flat jug and make sure you have a #.75 Camalot for the last bomber piece of crux gear, with a green C3 just a little higher. A short, "all or nothing" run for the jugs at the anchor might make or break your day, though there is nothing but wide open air all around you...